Recipe of the week: Red wine and fish: ‘Natural partners’

The lightly structured red wines of the Graves region of Bordeaux, France, are the perfect accompaniment to meaty, pan-seared fish steaks, said Ray Isle in Food & Wine. Graves is situated on the western bank of the Garonne River, “commonly referred to as the ‘left bank.’” The “smoky intensity” and “subtle flavors” of these wines, primarily made with Cabernet Sauvignon, also make them “natural partners for dishes” such as rosemary-potato-bacon skewers. This meal was created in F&W’s test kitchen by Marcia Kiesel, who recommends the fish and potatoes be paired with Château de Callac’s 2003 Cuvée Prestige, “a superb, affordable Graves.”

Recipes of the week

Halibut With Parsley-Lemon Sauce

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If halibut steaks are not available, any other “meaty but delicately flavored fish” can be substituted, including wild striped bass or snapper. Avoid such oily fish as bluefish, which make the tannins in red wine taste metallic. “The bright, lemony parsley sauce balances the earthy quality of a Graves.”

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 large shallots, thinly sliced

1 cup water

1/2 cup heavy cream

4 cups loosely packed parsley

2 tsp fresh lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground pepper

4 1/2-inch-thick halibut steaks (1-1/2 pounds)

In a medium saucepan, heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the water and simmer until reduced by half, about 6 minutes. Add the cream and simmer until reduced by one-third, about 6 minutes. Let cool for about 10 minutes.

Stir the parsley into the saucepan. Transfer the sauce to a blender and coarsely purée. Return the sauce to the saucepan. Stir in the lemon juice, season the sauce with salt and pepper, and keep warm. In each of 2 large nonstick skillets, heat 1 tbsp of the remaining oil until shimmering. Season the halibut with salt and pepper and cook over high heat, turning once, until browned and just cooked, about 4 minutes. Transfer the halibut to plates. Serve with the parsley sauce. Serves 4.

Roasted Potato Skewers

Red potatoes on skewers with cubes of bacon make an aromatic side dish that complements the smokiness of Graves red wines.

6 oz meaty slab bacon, cut into 16 1/2-inch cubes

4 rosemary sprigs, cut into 16 1-inch pieces

16 small red potatoes (1-1/2 lbs)

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spear the bacon cubes with the rosemary sprigs. Alternately, thread the potatoes and the bacon onto four 10-inch metal skewers. Lay the skewers on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle them with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake for about 40 minutes, until the bacon is crisp and the potatoes are tender. Serves 4.