Italian chefs are updating the recipes of their grandmothers, taking them “in a lighter and more creative direction,” said Marian Burros in The New York Times. This deftly reinvented version of a cherished Sicilian classic is the handiwork of Giovanni Alfa, chef of Locanda del Borgo in Rosolini, Sicily, near Siracusa.
Recipe of the week
Rice Croquettes With Ragu and Fondue
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(Arancini)
For the ragu:
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2-1/4 lbs boneless pork loin, chopped into 1/4-inch pieces
1/2 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup chopped canned tomatoes
1/2 tsp fennel seeds
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the fondue:
7 oz fresh caciocavallo cheese, sliced or cut into small pieces
1-3/4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1/4 cup flour
2 egg yolks
For the croquettes:
5-1/2 tbsp olive oil
1/3 cup finely chopped sweet onion
1/4 cup tomato paste
1 tbsp saffron threads
1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
36 oz carnaroli rice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil, for deep frying
1-1/2 cups flour
Fine dry bread crumbs
10 to 12 rosemary sprigs, for garnish.
For the ragu: In large sauté pan, heat olive oil. Add onion, sauté until softened. Add pork, sauté until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste, chopped tomato, fennel, rosemary, 3 cups water. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid has nearly evaporated and mixture is very thick, about 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, set aside until cool.
For the fondue: In double boiler, combine cheese and broth. When cheese is melted, whisk mixture until cheese and broth arecombined and smooth. Gradually whisk in flour until there are no lumps. Whisk in egg yolks one at a time. Remove from heat, set aside.
For the croquettes: Place wide, deep saucepan over medium-low heat, add 5-1/2 tbsp oil. Add onion, sauté until tender. Add tomato paste, saffron, nutmeg, 9 cups water. Stir in rice, season with salt and pepper to taste.
Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until rice is tender and water absorbed, about 20 minutes. Spread rice across two large baking sheets, let cool.
Using wet hands, shape croquette with little less than 3/4 cup of rice in one hand and form a thick concave patty. Put 1 heaping tbsp ragu in center, and with other hand gently work rice around ragu to form a ball 3 inches in diameter. Set aside on baking sheet, repeat with remaining ragu and rice.
Fill saucepan or deep fryer with olive oil to depth of at least 3 inches. Place over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, in small bowl, combine flour with just enough water to make wet paste the consistency of light batter. Dip each croquette in batter, return to baking sheet. Fill another small bowl with
bread crumbs, and set aside a clean baking sheet. Dip all croquettes in bread crumbs, place on baking sheet.
Return double boiler to medium heat to reheat fondue. Meanwhile, deep-fry croquettes just until golden brown on outside, then transfer to paper towels to drain. To serve, spoon a portion of fondue into a shallow soup dish, and gently lay three croquettes on top. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary, and serve immediately. Serves 10 to 12.
