Cambodia's hidden jungle temple
Maybe you've heard of Angkor Wat. But do you know about Beng Mealea?

Each week, we spotlight a dream vacation recommended by some of the industry's top travel writers. This week's pick is Beng Mealea, Cambodia.
Beng Mealea "gives plenty of hope to the Indiana Jones in all of us," said Dave Stamboulis at BBC. A half-hidden 12th-century temple located just 25 miles from Angkor Wat, it attracts none of the traffic jams, tourist buses, or trinket sellers associated with the more famous religious site, and it has a "forgotten, haunted look" that can make any visitor feel as if no one has wandered its grounds in generations. Until recently, Beng Mealea could only be reached by way of a dusty, potholed jungle road. Though the road has now been paved, the temple's out-of-the-way location still acts as "a wonderful deterrent to all but the most adventurous."
On the one-hour drive from Siem Reap, my taxi passes farmers on oxcarts, children playing by the roadside, and men on bicycles wearing krama, the traditional Khmer scarf. Like Angkor, which was built in the same style at roughly the same time, Beng Mealea is surrounded by a large moat. This place, however, "looks as though an earthquake has struck it." Some large structures still stand, but many have collapsed into piles of large stone blocks, and "nature has run riot." A recently built raised walkway lets visitors circle the site at a slight remove, but that approach "misses much of what makes Beng Mealea special."
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
To really explore, ask to be guided by a member of the entry staff, who for a tip will lead you into the heart of the ruins. "You'll spend the next few hours clambering over verdant blocks and columns — through seemingly dead-end passages — and emerging from stone chimneys to find temple areas smothered in tree roots." During my last such excursion, I watched an Indian couple crawl hand in hand through a tunnel of fallen blocks, "agape when they emerged to find a towering temple wall crawling with vines above them." They were honeymooners, and though they were covered in sweat and dust, "they were glowing as if they'd just walked down the aisle."
Read more at BBC, or book a room at the Golden Temple Hotel. Doubles start at $145.

Continue reading for free
We hope you're enjoying The Week's refreshingly open-minded journalism.
Subscribed to The Week? Register your account with the same email as your subscription.