Atlanta dining: The best lemon pepper wings

"No food better symbolizes Atlanta's spirit than lemon pepper wings," said Mike Jordan in Bon Appétit. Like San Francisco's burritos, the dish is a go-to for locals that has become part of the city's identity. Whether they're serving the wings "dry" (seasoned) or "wet" (sauced), restaurants at all levels offer creative riffs on the theme. Below, five of the best.

Apt. 4B

This scene-y Buckhead lounge bypasses chicken to feature turkey wings, each "the size of a large pork rib." They're marinated for 24 hours, "confited until fall-apart tender," fried to “a delectable crunch,” then tossed in a Caribbean-inspired combo of lemon pepper and Scotch bonnet. 2293 Peachtree Road.

The Local

A "vibey dive bar," the Local has long been considered one of the best places for wings. The wings are not available for takeout and not served on Mondays but are "absolutely worth the trouble." Go traditional here or try "the unexpectedly awesome mashup of lemon pepper and Korean barbecue sauce." 758 Ponce De Leon Ave. NE.

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J.R. Crickets

Since Donald Glover's Atlanta featured Crickets' off-menu wing marriage of Buffalo sauce and lemon pepper, "lemon pepper wet" has taken over the city. "Fried hard yet more chewy than crisp, these originals remain the blueprint." Multiple locations.

Magic City Kitchen

Yes, it's housed in Magic City, a storied strip club. Yet the wings made by this woman-owned business "aren't just good for a strip club, but some of Atlanta's finest." Try the wet, tossed with honey barbecue sauce. 241 Forsyth St. SW.

Dhaba Wings

This low-key Bangladeshi restaurant has "some of the most delectable wings in the city." Marinated in crushed garlic and chaat masala, they're fried and coated in "a savory citrus dressing, leaving a sticky surface for additional lemon pepper seasoning." 5953 Buford Highway NE.