One Aldwych: where London's creative spirit takes centre stage

One of the world's leading cultural capitals, London's neighbourhoods are brimming with history and creativity. But tapping into the city's vast wealth of legendary tales and artistic networks isn't always easy, even for seasoned residents. More often than not, a little insider knowledge can go a long way. 

A proudly independent hotel, One Aldwych has been a gateway to the best that London has to offer for more than 25 years. And now this distinguished establishment has gone one step further in helping its guests to crack open the bountiful trove of the city's rich treasures by partnering with some of its most talented and knowledgeable curators. 

So, whether it's a theatrical spectacle or pop culture exploration that takes your fancy – or perhaps just a night of excellent dining and indulging – a stay at this Covent Garden cornerstone is sure to deliver a different side to the London you already know and love.

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Why stay here? 

Standing proud just off the Strand, this striking Edwardian building's location is unrivalled. The imposing premises were designed by Mewès & Davis (the architects behind London's The Ritz Hotel) in 1905 to house The Morning Post newspaper; how lucky those reporters were to work in such a spot. That said, the paper's printers would probably have preferred the contemporary remodelling of their workroom, the former printing presses having now been supplanted by an 18-metre swimming pool.

You'll be struck by One Aldwych's full wow-factor as you enter through the imposing double-height Lobby Bar, which is flooded with natural light thanks to lofty arched windows. Original art nouveau elements have been thoughtfully reflected in its contemporary renovations, with the black and white marble floor, curved timber panelling and swish seating all setting the scene. The elegant atmosphere is continued in the library opposite, which has a slightly softer feel – perfect for meetings, a stint of inbox clearing or a few hours curled up with an excellent book.

Always with a curator's eye, there is an immense attention to detail since British designer Robert Angell's reimagining of the hotel's 86 rooms and 16 suites was brought to life five years ago. From the pastel hues and soft furnishings, to the lotions and luxurious touches in the bathrooms, every element of this five-star hotel's not-so-humble abodes has been carefully considered to optimise comfort, style and ease. The interiors are no doubt pleasing, but we also struggled to tear ourselves away from our room's view across the Southbank's idiosyncratic skyline.

What to see and do 

It's probably best to let the hotel's team and their coterie of curators take control of your itinerary; with ins at many establishments you might want to visit in London, they won't be short of recommendations. We were treated to the full Curators programme during our stay and, packed as it turned out to be with buckets of expert knowledge, surprising details and enlightening conversations, it surpassed all expectations. 

How better to live out the history of London's pop culture scene than with a walking tour through Soho's famed streets? We were expertly navigated by Victoria Broackes, director of the London Design Biennale, and Geoffrey Marsh, who together co-curated the Victoria & Albert's most visited exhibition in the illustrious museum's history: "David Bowie Is". The pair's knowledge of the icon and the wider context of the city's music scene in the 1960s and 70s is surely unrivalled; if I'd asked about any particular building, or even room, on Denmark Street at random, I've little doubt they'd have been able to tell me which rock stars had performed, stayed or worked there. Broackes also leads a "West End and Theatreland" tour, as well as "The City in 1600", focusing on William Shakespeare's London. All can be tailored to guests' interests.

We were made to feel like stars ourselves – or perhaps more accurately "Bridgerton" extras – meeting silhouettist Charles Burns. An artist self-trained in the deft art of carving portraits from card using just a pair of surgical scissors, Burns captures a person's image in only a few moments. 

Having spent years reviving interest and enthusiasm in this lost art from a stand in Covent Garden, the number of cuts he's completed during his more than three-decade-long career is now well into the hundreds of thousands – and that expansive archive includes the silhouette of Queen Elizabeth II (several times over). 

One Aldwych's guests can enjoy a unique "Stroll Along the Strand" tour with Burns, before getting their own portrait cut over a fresh brew. His silhouettes are artworks to be treasured.

Our programme continued with a theatrical flourish, performed by the Donmar Warehouse's fundraising lead Silvia Melchior, whose impressive career has taken her everywhere from the Royal Opera House to the Southbank Centre and Handel House Museum. We wound our way through Covent Garden to the Donmar, a wonderful 250-seat not-for-profit theatre near Seven Dials, for the penultimate performance of Benedict Andrews' five-star take on Anton Chekhov's "The Cherry Orchard". The star-studded production was superb, and exemplified just how important spaces like the Donmar are in London's increasingly costly theatre scene. Part of Melchior's role is to ensure the company has the funds to keep tickets affordable and high-quality theatre accessible for audiences. 

Through One Aldwych, guests can offer their support by attending a production and going behind the scenes with the creative team. And knowing probably everyone in the biz, Melchior can also help to arrange last-minute tickets to the city's most popular shows and spectacles too. 

To round off our action-packed programme, historian and broadcaster Dr Matthew Green took us on a lively walking tour through the oldest part of the city to find out how coffee and the very earliest coffee houses transformed London. 

As I'd found with Broackes, I've little doubt I could have quizzed Green on almost any building we passed, his knowledge of the area being so thorough and wide-ranging. With a knack for storytelling and highlighting surprising and unexpected facts, he brings to life the city's history in an extremely engaging and enjoyable manner; our two-hour tour whizzed by. 

Green leads several tours for One Aldwych's guests, including a "Medieval Wine" tour, the "Five Drinks" tour (exploring how five beverages shaped the capital) and the "City Soul" tour, for those looking for a more in-depth exploration of London's lesser known histories.

After clocking up a significant step count with the help of the hotel's curators, get some well deserved rest and relaxation in One Aldwych's spa. There's the aforementioned (and chlorine-free) pool, complete with an underwater soundtrack, as well as a steam room, sauna, treatment rooms and high-tech gym. Or simply unwind in your room before making your way down to the hotel's restaurants for an evening of feasting.

Eating and drinking 

The hotel's signature restaurant, Indigo, is a warm and sophisticated space, a feeling reflected in its very pleasing menu. Slide into a banquette and opt for a loose waistband, because the seven-course tasting menu is the way to go. Head chef Dominic Teague makes the most of seasonal produce and flavours, partnering with independent British producers to demonstrate that sustainable cooking doesn't mean compromising on finesse. And if that wasn't already impressive, every dish is dairy- and gluten-free too. 

This was my dining companion's first experience of a tasting menu, and Indigo has certainly set expectations high for future ones. A seared Orkney scallop with fennel, confit chicken thigh and basil was beautifully fresh and hit all the right notes, which was followed by a delicately balanced lemon sole bouillabaisse, with fish caught fresh that day. The cutlet course was sumptuous, pipped only by the Cornish bitter chocolate tart with a scoop of peanut ice cream for us. There's a curated wine pairing too, or delve into the restaurant's extensive wine list to find a bottle of something special to savour. 

Downstairs, the Lobby Bar is the place to be for an evening of cocktails and conversation. The recently unveiled Gallery Menu has been crafted to complement One Aldwych's rich and varied modern art collection, offering an almost synaesthetic experience. 

The blueberry enzoni, inspired by Philip Diggle's "Michel Foucault", was a top choice for me, packing a fruity punch to match the artist's punk-inspired piece. The quince and Earl Grey martini and morello cherry mai tai were also popular choices. I'll have to wait for a return visit to summon the strength for the horseradish martini, inspired by the bar's artistic centrepiece, André Wallace's "The Boatman".

There's all the classics too, including signature One Aldwych mixes. Enjoyed over small plates of pork sliders, crab cakes and artisanal cheese and meats, what better way to spend an evening before getting ready to rest and repeat?

The verdict 

It took no time at all to make ourselves at home at One Aldwych, where the team are truly a breath of attentive, friendly and welcoming air. Service throughout our stay was superb, and every request readily met – but it was the warm nature with which staff were willing to take a little extra time to chat, to share a personal recommendation, or simply to find out a bit more about what we'd been up to with our day that really made our stay feel really special.

One Aldwych has been doing things its own way for more than 25 years and thankfully there's no sign of that slowing down. With a considered and forward-thinking approach to going the extra mile for its guests, there's no doubt its success will long continue. 

Julia was a guest of One Aldwych, where stays start from £650 per night on a room-only basis.