Cow’s milk is making a comeback. Reversing a long trend, sales of dairy milk are on the rise and alt-milk sales declining. The protein craze and MAHA’s interest in raw milks have contributed to the rebound, and milk has enjoyed an image makeover. Demonized in the 2010s as inflammatory, unethical, and environmentally harmful, it’s being recognized again for its health benefits and for being purer than processed soy, nut, and oat milks. On TikTok and beyond, young consumers who grew up on plant-based milks are discovering dairy for the first time and, perhaps inspired by Nicole Kidman in Babygirl, treating it as the decadent, sexy choice. “After a decade of restriction and replacement,” said Ashliene McMenamy in Bon Appétit, “milk feels nourishing and subversive.”
Sunday Shortlist was written and edited by Susan Caskie, Ryan Devlin, Chris Mitchell, Rebecca Nathanson, and Matt Prigge.