A very big name returned to London Fashion Week Men’s this year in the form of Alexander McQueen, which made its way back to the capital after several years of presenting shows overseas.
The brand’s creative director Sarah Burton mounted her spring 2020 collection just a stone’s throw from McQueen HQ, with 31 looks that “echoed the fall 2019 women’s wear looks shown at Paris Fashion Week in March… to create a strong dialogue between [the brand’s] men’s and women’s wear”, the New York Times says.
But this year’s LFWM was also, as ever, a celebration of young talent, even as it showcased some of the biggest names of the past. And overseeing it all was Dylan Jones, chairman of the event and editor of men’s magazine GQ.
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As this year’s shows wound to a close, The Week Portfolio caught up with Jones via email to get his thoughts on where men’s fashion is now, and where it is heading in the future.
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You said in an interview recently that what London fashion week has over the other fashion weeks is its “eccentricity”. Where does the capital’s eccentricity come from, in your view, and what sustains it?
There must be something in the water. The creative industries in London keep regenerating themselves, week in, week out, and London Fashion Week Men's always benefits from a constant supply of new, young talent.
Menswear sales are now growing faster than womenswear, which admittedly is because they started from a significantly lower point. Why has it taken men so long to catch up with women? And has this growth been dependent on a generational shift?
Men have gradually become more sophisticated consumers over the last twenty years or so, while entry level consumers are more demanding than ever. And it is absolutely a generational shift, and a very positive one at that.
Men’s fashion is often accused of being less ambitious than women’s. Is that a fair critique, would you say?
Years ago you could say this, but not any more. If you look at the talent on display in London, you'll see an extraordinary amount of creativity.
How would you describe your own style?
I wake up in the morning and put on a blue suit. End of.
The pace of fashion is accelerating, and with it concerns about the environmental impact of clothing. Is enough being done to counter the impact of disposable fashion?
More and more men are “investment” shopping, as we all become more aware of the complexities of environmental issues.
Brexit, you have said in the past, will not affect the fashion industry more than other industries. But I take it you believe it will have an effect, and that will not be wholly positive. What do you see happening within the fashion industry on 31 October if, as some Tory leadership candidates are threatening, the UK crashes out of the EU without a deal?
I see a period of great difficulty, as any restrictions made on the movement of people or products will have an unduly negative impact on brands, especially smaller brands. We could be entering tariff hell!
And finally, what is your most treasured fashion item?
My bubbleback Rolex. I love it so much that I keep it in a safe at my bank.
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