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London's passion for poke
The delectable Hawaiian dish is hooking foodies across the capital, with restaurants such as Black Roe in Mayfair feeding the growing hunger
If the mention of Hawaiian cuisine brings to mind images of a pineapple-topped pizza, you may be surprised to learn about the culinary craze currently sweeping London.
Poke (pronounced poh-kay) consists of cubes of marinated raw fish served with various vegetables, often on a bed of seasoned rice, and eaten with chopsticks from a small bowl.
It's the specialty at new Mayfair restaurant Black Roe, the creation of Kurt Zdesar, the man who launched the dim sum chain Ping Pong and Soho's Chotto Matte. Serving what it describes as "the finest Pacific Rim cuisine", Black Roe's main focus is poke, of which it offers several variations, from the classic ahi (tuna) to scallops, sea bass and even beef.
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Black Roe also serves enticing meat dishes such as bison rib eye and kalua pork belly, all cooked on a traditional Hawaiian kiawe-wood grill.
But its signature dish is clear, with a dedicated poke bar that greets you as you walk in and from where diners can sit and watch as their dishes are sliced into shape.
Poke taps into a raw-fish trend among London diners laid down by Japanese sashimi and Peruvian ceviche, both of which continue to be popular in the capital. While it has long been a hit in New York and LA, in London it is a relatively new phenomenon. It was while travelling around the US that the owners of Fitzrovia's new Ahi Poke were inspired to open a restaurant in London. The theme they've aimed for is "simple Hawaiian beach shacks crossed with the laid-back poke-bar vibes of LA".
One of the more established poke players in the capital is Pond in Dalston, which has been serving the protein-rich dish since 2014. Pond also offers a wide range of other Hawaiian delights, including Spam nigiri. While Spam may bring back memories of a dark culinary past for many Brits, in Hawaii, it is highly prized.
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There is also the company Eat Poke, which provides pop-up catering at food markets and private events. It set up in Selfridges Foodhall earlier this year and can also deliver poke direct to your office. With Waitrose considering adding the dish to its shelves and Pret A Manger offering poke-style salads, one thing is clear: Hawaiian food is here to stay.
But forget about pineapple pizza – all other reservations aside, that dish was invented in Canada.
