The cultural upheaval of the post-First World War era permeated across all aspects of society and life. As a reaction against the austerity imposed by the war, Art Deco epitomised the artistic dynamism of the Jazz Age and remains a fundamental influence on contemporary design.
As ever, horology both reflected and adapted to these changing times. Timepieces had played a vital role in ensuring precision during combat and soldiers returned wearing their trench watches strapped to their wrists for practicality. The following years saw pocket watches decrease in sales as their modern, more functional counterparts became all the rage and the aesthetics of wristwatches expanded beyond their military roots to the dressier styles of the day.
Just as Art Deco has endured, the watches it influenced continue to be just as sought after today. One of the earliest and most notable examples is the Cartier Tank. First created in 1917 by Louis Cartier and inspired by the Renault tanks he saw on the Western Front, it was launched in 1919. Since then, the distinctive square-faced watch has been a favourite of style icons across the decades, from Jackie Kennedy to Michelle Obama.
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Celebrating its 85th anniversary this year is the Reverso, the most instantly recognisable creation from Jaeger-LeCoultre. Originally made for polo players, its main and ingenious feature is a dial that flips over to protect it. While it may seem out of place in a line-up of modern sports watches, its handsome rectangular silhouette and 1930s styling makes it a go-to piece for more formal occasions. It has been a vehicle for various complications and features, and 2016 has seen it reimagined in three new models – the Reverso Classic, Reverso One and Reverso Tribute.
More recent inventions give further credence to the persevering popularity of the Deco style. The 1990s saw the launch of the glamorous DolceVita, which remains one of Longines' main lines. Other brands with a history stretching back centuries have also singled out the period as one to revisit for their creations.
Chaumet, a participant in the 1925 Exposition des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, from which the Art Deco movement was named, was renowned for its exquisite jewellery, taking in the trends of the time. It was in the 21st century, however, that it launched the Dandy: with its exaggerated curved cushion-shaped case, oversized numerals and asymmetric dial, it provides a thoroughly modern take on the genre. Meanwhile, the East West from Tiffany & Co., with its unusual horizontal dial, takes inspiration from a vintage purse watch from the 1940s.
Just as the traditional timepiece has weathered changes in design and technology, fascination in the style shows no sign of slowing.
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