Rising to the Top: The inexorable rise of Elie Top

How Yves Saint Laurent's one-time assistant is redefining bijoux de fantaisie

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In the opening scene of her 1920 novel Cheri, French writer Colette describes two lovers playfully squabbling over a precious pearl necklace. If ever there was a contemporary rendering of this object of desire, it would be conjured up by Elie Top, the Parisian designer whose pieces exude drama and complexity befitting a romantic tug of war. Pearls also played a pivotal role when the Lanvin accessories designer made his first solo venture into fine jewellery. His 2015 debut collection, Mecaniques Celestes, featured segmented orbs concealing diamonds and other gems. A symbol of the gravitational pull between two people, his Toi et Moi blackened silver ring has rotating spheres that hinge open to reveal a fragile white and grey pearl. Secret compartments are something of a theme.

"I wanted a story of movement and mystery, hiding and showing things," says the softly spoken designer. "Trying to find two different faces on the same jewel. When it's closed, it's bold and industrial. Inside, you have something a bit more poetic."

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