Bryn Williams at Somerset House
The Welsh chef talks about how he is making fruit and vegetables the stars of the show at his latest restaurant
What is the inspiration behind the restaurant at Somerset House?
Fruit and veg! I want to showcase the best of fruit and vegetables by displaying their worth in a pure and simple way.
Why did you want to make fruit and vegetables the star of the show?
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Most people respect meat and fish when they cook with it or eat it, but fruit and vegetables are really underestimated. I've seen at home the effort and time that goes into producing the quality fruit and vegetables we then see on the shelves. They really deserve just as much respect as meat and fish, if not more.
Do you think that vegetables are not always treated with the same respect as meat and fish in the wider industry?
I think behind closed doors they are treated with respect, but it hasn't been considered exciting enough to publicise. Now, however, the rise in clean-eating menus and vegan lifestyles means that fruit and veg is seen more and more, so the respect is now rapidly on the rise.
How are you bringing a sustainable approach to your food?
I really hate the wastage that goes on in restaurants. Every chef should be conscious of what they throw in the bin – avoiding it whenever possible. This is a huge focus for me in all three of my restaurants.
To what extent do you think sustainable dining has been adopted by the industry as a whole?
It is definitely growing. Chefs and restaurateurs need to be sustainable as they are the leaders of the industry and should therefore be leading by example. There are certainly more chefs thinking about 'growing your own', cooking with the seasons and using local produce, with carbon footprint in mind.
During the time you've been a chef, do you think food culture, in terms of sustainability, has changed?
Having been in London for 20 years, I've seen really significant change. Consumers are now so much more aware of the provenance of their food and love it when restaurants clearly care too. Previously, traceability in meat and fish was the focus and now there is huge awareness. Only recently has this same interest occurred for fruit and vegetables, not only in where they come from but how they're grown too.
Are there any dishes you are particularly proud of on the menu?
I really love our roast cauliflower, golden raisins, capers, soft polenta and salted grapes. It's a cauliflower steak with polenta on the side, and it is such a great dish for vegetarians or meat lovers as it's so delicious and substantial too.
BRYN WILLIAMS is chef patron of three restaurants – Odette's, Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias and, his latest opening, Bryn Williams at Somerset house. bryn-williams.co.uk; bryn-somersethouse.co.uk
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