Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend but the ethical issues raised by diamond mining may prove less compatible with her conscience.
Indeed, consumers of both sexes are increasingly aware of the environmental and social harm caused during the mining process - resulting in a burgeoning market for a more eco-friendly alternative. Cultured diamonds are grown in laboratory conditions that mimic the traditional diamond-creating process, albeit much more quickly (a vital requirement, given that the natural method can take between a billion and 3.3 billion years).
De Beers, Tiffany & Co. and Swarovski are among a string of jewellery giants that have unveiled lines featuring cultured diamonds, but London-based brand Lark & Berry is the first to offer only ethical gems.
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Launched in May 2018, Lark & Berry is the brainchild of Laura Chavez, a London Business School graduate who wanted to create high-quality jewellery that didn’t cost the Earth, literally or figuratively. She spent two years researching options before setting up her brand along with Kate Rowland, a designer whose impressive CV includes stints at Agent Provocateur and accessories label Sophie Hulme.
With the emphasis on design and a strong sustainability message, the dedicated duo have launched a jewellery range that costs from £200 for the demi-fine 14K gold collections to £3,000 to £100,000 for the really fancy stuff.
The brand is already making its mark, with a buzzing store in London’s Marylebone and celebrity fans including models Martha Hunt, Jourdan Dunn and Halima Aden, Black Earth Rising actor Michaela Coel and comedian Katherine Ryan.
And the future looks equally sparkling. Lark & Berry is celebrating a new partnership with US-based non-profit organisation One Tree Planted, as the diamond disruptors prepare to go global.
The Week Portfolio caught up with Chavez to find out more.
What does your partnership with One Tree Planted involve?
We always want Lark & Berry to shine different, and disruption isn’t always enough. We’re taking a further step in helping sustain our planet by sharing the benefits of our product sales and aiding reforestation - five trees at a time. For every Lark & Berry item sold, whether online or from our Marylebone store, One Tree Planted will plant five trees in different continents, including Africa, where the effects of diamond mining have hit hardest.
Diamond mining has taken an enormous toll on environments around the world - we’re talking huge, permanent holes dug into the earth, polluted ground waters, wildlife displacement, the list goes on. This partnership is helping us help our planet by planting fresh trees.
Production aside, are there any differences between lab-grown and mined diamonds?
There are two detectable differences between cultured and mined - price and sustainability. Scientifically speaking, cultured diamonds are absolutely identical to mined. Both under the naked eye and judged with jewellers’ tools, there is nothing detectably different in a cultured diamond versus a mined.
In fact, with cultured, we more often wind up with a superior diamond - a higher percentage of our lab-diamonds reach the coveted Type IIa diamond standard than you’ll find with most mined diamonds. The high jewellery prices that luxury diamond fans are accustomed to are a product of an industry monopoly. We’ve changed the game with cultured - less money, easier on the environment and guaranteed conflict-free.
What makes Lark & Berry stand out from its rivals?
With cultured diamonds being of equal and often superior quality to mined diamonds, and at a lower price point, we feel cultured is the easy choice, but we don’t just want to stand out from the pack with scientific innovation. From day one, Lark & Berry has been a design-focused brand. We have collections ranging from everyday pieces to gala wear, and we’re always listening to customer feedback for implementation in new collections.
We want to wipe out the outdated belief that diamonds are just for engagement rings, that they’re only for the most special of occasions, which is what most other luxury brands focus on. Our cultured diamonds are for every person and occasion.
We’re always hearing from people about how proud they are of their cultured diamonds. They love that they’re getting a better diamond at a fairer price point and doing their part to help save the Earth. This is just the beginning, Lark & Berry is completely changing the world of luxury diamonds.
What’s next?
The realm of luxury piercings! Not only are we the first dedicated retail store to exclusively carry cultured diamonds, we’re also the first to do so and feature a piercing studio and art exhibition space, in our flagship London store.
As of November, we’ve had a piercing artist who works closely with clients to find the best, most artful look. And while clients get their piercings, the can look at the beautiful art adorning our store from notable, sustainability-supporting artists, whose work rotates every six to eight weeks.
Our new piercing concept has been such a hit, that we are planning to launch it concurrently in new store locations that we’re now eyeing up in Hong Kong, New York City, Mexico and Madrid. We’ve been checking out locations, so watch this space!
Lark & Berry is located at 52a George Street, Marylebone, London. See larkandberry.com
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Kari Wilkin is The Week Digital’s global managing editor. She joined the UK site as production editor in 2017, after moving across from The Week magazine. Her career as a journalist began as a sub-editor at newspapers including The Sun, Metro, the Daily Star and News of the World, followed by stints at Elle and Asda Magazine. She also helped to launch the UK edition of Women’s Health magazine, as chief sub-editor with a sideline in writing; has penned travel and lifestyle articles for titles including The Telegraph and The Sun; and is a contributor on “The Week Unwrapped” podcast.
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