Wine: Chardonnay revisited

California chardonnay, “the wine everyone loves to loathe,” deserves a second look, said Jim Clarke in Details. Not every vintner in the state overages it in oak, producing that “sweet vanilla-butterscotch” taste that connoisseurs despise. Chardonnay’s “bright, fresh qualities” are being rediscovered—by both industry newcomers and stalwart traditionalists.

2010 Chateau Montelena ($48). The wine that bettered France’s best in 1976 delivers “mineral, honey, and Meyer lemon notes,” plus “a long, complex finish.”

2009 Stony Hill ($40). Stony Hill’s “citrus-focused” chardonnay “is so old-fashioned it’s back in vogue.”

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2012 Matthiasson Linda Vista ($25). In this chard from a prominent relative newcomer, “the warmth of Napa Valley brings out pear, apple, and lemon flavors.”