California chardonnay, “the wine everyone loves to loathe,” deserves a second look, said Jim Clarke in Details. Not every vintner in the state overages it in oak, producing that “sweet vanilla-butterscotch” taste that connoisseurs despise. Chardonnay’s “bright, fresh qualities” are being rediscovered—by both industry newcomers and stalwart traditionalists.
2010 Chateau Montelena ($48). The wine that bettered France’s best in 1976 delivers “mineral, honey, and Meyer lemon notes,” plus “a long, complex finish.”
2009 Stony Hill ($40). Stony Hill’s “citrus-focused” chardonnay “is so old-fashioned it’s back in vogue.”
The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
2012 Matthiasson Linda Vista ($25). In this chard from a prominent relative newcomer, “the warmth of Napa Valley brings out pear, apple, and lemon flavors.”
