A foodie guide to Edinburgh
Go all-out with a Michelin-starred meal or grab a casual bite in the Scottish capital
When one thinks of the Scottish capital, images of winding lanes, towering spires and snow-capped hills might come to mind. But after a wander round Edinburgh Castle, with its sweeping views and 900 years of history, you might find that you have become hungry – and this is where the real fun begins.
Edinburgh’s food scene is creative and dynamic, so don’t be shy, get stuck in and discover why it has become one to watch. Here’s some of the best the city has to offer.
Memorable fine dining
The Witchery: classic ingredients elevated to a new level
The Witchery
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With its location right next to the castle, you might be afraid that this is a tourist trap – but don’t be. The building dates back to the 16th century, but the restaurant is from 1979, and feels like it has been around forever. The Medieval dining room glows in the dimmed light, as you enjoy a menu that is packed with favourites. This is classic cooking, from lobster bisque, to beef tartare, to some of the best haggis on the east coast. Food here is unctuous and indulgent – you will leave feeling spoiled.
Heron
Get out of the centre and head to the foodie hotspot of Leith to discover Heron. The brainchild of chef Sam Yorke, it was awarded its first Michelin star in 2023, and it has maintained this level of quality since. With a focus on local ingredients that are used with flair and creativity, it has been praised for its relaxed atmosphere and attention to detail. Don’t miss the sika deer with lingonberry and fig leaf, or the monkfish with black truffle. Wine pairings are perfectly matched, and the cocktail menu is innovative. This is a meal you won’t forget.
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The Little Chartroom
Also in Leith, you will find a chic dining room that flickers in candlelight. Chef Roberta Hall-McCarron’s The Little Chartroom is a breath of fresh air, with truly excellent ingredients that showcase the best of Scotland’s larder. Treacle-cured chalk stream trout, Teasses Estate mallard, and locally caught plaice are among the delights you will be treated to on an invigorating menu that changes regularly. The service is relaxed, but oozes confidence.
Gastropub favourites and stand-out seafood
Tipo is one of the best spots in town for a hearty pasta dish
The Captain Darling
A newcomer in a city that’s almost a millennium old, this gastropub is taking leafy Stockbridge by storm. This is a neighbourhood spot at heart, although the cuisine is a tad more elevated than that suggests. Chef Scott Smith has designed a menu of flavourful, seasonal dishes, including comforting pies, velvety cauliflower cheese, and crispy chicken schnitzel. It serves a cracker of a Sunday roast too.
Tipo
Sometimes a big bowl of pasta is just the only thing that will do, so when that happens Tipo is the spot to run to. This is just one of chef Stuart Ralston’s restaurants, but it stands on its own two feet as a spot not to be missed. The creamy cacio e pepe with truffle will warm you up on a cold Scottish night, while the artichoke with endive and hazelnut side is a must.
Barry Fish
Another Leith establishment, the coastal town’s long fishing heritage inspired chef Barry Bryson to open a new seafood joint in 2025. And after earning a Michelin Guide recommendation just eight months after opening, its reputation is growing and growing. The menu is bright and exciting, with Mull cheddar beignets, halibut with mussels, and lobster with smoked fish agnolotti. Perfect for a sunny day by the water.
Scotch whiskies and small plates
Ardfern offers a wonderful selection of tasty small plates
Nishiki
The oft-overlooked area of Haymarket is worth heading to for some of the most authentic Japanese food in the city. Designed like a Tokyo izakaya, the vibe is casual, with an emphasis on fresh, fast flavours. Small plates include yakitori chicken, yakiniku beef, prawn katsu with cheese and avocado, and an impressive selection of sashimi. Don’t forget to sample the sake menu to feel like you really are on the other side of the world.
Toscano
This Italian sandwich bar is a little outside the centre, but the picturesque stroll to leafy Bruntsfield district is worth it. It specialises in Tuscan schiacciata, a type of flatbread stuffed with authentic ingredients like deli meats and cheeses. The Il Toscano features prosciutto crudo, crema di parmigiano, rocket and balsamic glaze, and is a feast for the senses. This will keep you going all day.
Scotch Whisky Bar
You simply have to have some whisky while you’re here. Scotch, in the historic Balmoral Hotel, is one of the top places to explore our national tipple, and staff here make it their mission to find one that you will love. With an enormous selection behind the bar, they know a thing or two about the water of life, as it is known. Sláinte.
roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/the-balmoral-hotel/dining/scotch/
Ardfern
Wine bars are having a moment, and Ardfern is certainly one of the best. This cafe, bar and bottle shop has a large selection to enjoy by the glass, as well as some really unusual wines by the bottle, that you can take home or have in store. Pair your choice with one of its bar snacks, such as sunflower seed hummus with chicory or oysters and chilli.
Vivien
It takes a second to adjust to the dark in this basement bar, but once you do you know you’re in for a treat. Sit in a cosy corner with friends, or at the bar where you can watch the team expertly prepare one of their unique concoctions. From the Essence de la nuit with calvados and lavender syrup, to the Poire au poivre, with Islay cask whisky and pink peppercorn.
Of course, no visit to the capital would be complete without exploring some of the city’s best pubs. The Guildford Arms, the Jolly Judge, the Blue Blazer, the Halfway House and the Sheep Heid Inn are all excellent examples of traditional watering holes.
Where to stay
W Edinburgh is home to the first Sushisamba branch in Scotland
W Edinburgh
Launched in 2023, the W Edinburgh has made its name as one of the most exciting properties in the city. It is situated in the St James’ Quarter in a purpose-built bronze, ribbon-shaped building, perfectly located for all the main sights. Its 244 rooms are designed with the W’s contemporary and disruptive style in mind, and are decorated in jewel tones, with stonework inspired by the Edinburgh landscape, and skyline-sweeping views. After a long day of sightseeing, you might also want to enjoy the Away Spa, with its private hot tub, experience shower and sauna space made for luxuriating in. Skilled therapists use products from Ishga, a Scottish brand that harnesses the power of Hebridean seaweed, for massages that refresh and revitalise.
Not to be missed is the W Deck rooftop bar, which has a 360-degree vantage point – surely the best hotel view in the city. The W Lounge on the floor below serves cocktails that you can enjoy beside floor-to-ceiling windows. This is also where you will find Scotland’s first branch of Sushisamba, the first branch in Scotland, where you can enjoy umami-rich dishes including lobster ceviche, sea bass with pickled chilli, and A5 wagyu beef on a hot stone.
Jaymi was a guest of the restaurants featured and the W Edinburgh
Jaymi McCann is a freelance journalist who writes extensively on travel for The Week, as well as publications including The Telegraph, National Geographic, Rough Guides, The i Paper and The Mail on Sunday. She has a degree in English literature from the University of Glasgow, a master’s in newspaper journalism from City University London, and 15 years of experience on Fleet Street. She specialises in writing about Scotland, as well as cruising, city guides and foodie travel. Jaymi loves to discover new places, particularly in Switzerland, Germany and southern Europe. Her Glasgow guide for The Week won a gong at the annual Media Getaway Awards.