A local's guide to Edinburgh
Break away from the Royal Mile and discover everything you need to know about the vibrant capital – from a Scotsman

I spent roughly the last quarter of my life living outside my native Scotland. The number of people I met, from all over the world, who told me they had visited my home country made me proud. The percentage of them who told me they had seen Edinburgh Castle and Edinburgh Airport was wearying.
I get it. The castle is incredible – the views, the history, the romance… it's all great. If you’ve never been, you should go. But it takes half a day at most. There is so much more to Edinburgh than just the theme park approximation of Scottish culture that gushes down Castlehill. It's a living, breathing international capital, full of diversity and wonder; of delectable grime and obnoxious beauty. It's like any other capital city in the world and it's utterly unique at the same time. Since I returned to Scotland at the start of the year, I've been compiling these tips to help more people discover the real Edinburgh.
Things to do
The 'revolutionary' Port of Leith Distillery
While there is a reliable tram service that can get you around the city, and is particularly handy for returning to the centre when you've been down in Leith, it's better to get into the hidden streets and alleyways by foot. Newington Road has some cool antique shops and will lead you back up towards the modern Scottish Parliament or ancient Edinburgh University – both are fun neighbourhoods to get lost in.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Explore the West End, then follow the Water of Leith into Stockbridge; head straight down Leith Walk into Leith itself to find the old docks, a revolutionary new distillery (which does tours) at Port of Leith Distillery, and a glut of fantastic bars and restaurants. These areas are also home to some of the city's coolest independent boutiques: Dick's Edinburgh in Stockbridge selects menswear and womenswear from Scotland and beyond each season and has a really friendly and knowledgeable team, while Bard in Leith has a stunning array of the most beautiful homewares Scotland's artisans have to offer.
Eating and drinking
I firmly believe the soul of any city can be found in its kitchens. Edinburgh is lucky enough to have many, and an enormous variety of cuisines. If you really crave the Royal Mile experience you can't go wrong with the Witchery. The food is excellent and the restaurant has exactly the kind of opulent and spooky décor that most Edinburgh visitors are looking for.
For something truly local, venture further south. Walking down the hill from the Old Town towards the Meadows is a good idea anyway – the architecture along the way is magnificent – but just across the grass on Roseneath Street you’ll find Nàdair. It's a proper neighbourhood gem; a tiny dining room nestled on the high street, but with a kitchen to rival anywhere in the world. Much of the menu is foraged so it would be futile to recommend a dish as they change so frequently, but if you're lucky enough to visit in the right season to pair the meal with a gorse martini, do so.
Across the city in the New Town, Moss takes the idea of local produce one step further. Everything on the menu comes from the owner's family farm, as does the wood for the tables and most of the décor.
There's also a vibrant coffee scene throughout the city, providing plenty of short-term fuel stops for avid explorers. Singapore Coffee House is a great breakfast/brunch spot, but get there early or be prepared to queue; Cairngorm Coffee has a convivial atmosphere and some of the best cakes in Edinburgh; Patisserie Florentin is frequented by posh Stockbridge grannies and cool hipster students in equal measure, making it great for people watching; while Storries Home Bakery on Leith Walk is as far from posh as you can get but a mainstay among locals for their quality pies and low prices.
Most trips to Scotland will involve whisky, and most pubs will have a selection larger than the dedicated whisky bars do in your home city. Sticking to Rose Street will serve you well if you just want a quick dram to tick the box, but for a really special collection head a bit off the beaten path to Tipsy Midgie.
Edinburgh also has a strong brewing scene and most bars will stock, along with the legendary and incomparable Tennent's, at least one beer made within the city limits. Pilot Beer is one of the most popular, and they've now opened their own pub at the heart of the New Town. Vessel is located on Hanover Street, just a few minutes' walk from pretty much everywhere, and is a great place to grab food and pints at any time of day.
Where to stay
The Balmoral: an unmistakeable Edinburgh icon
Edinburgh is one of the most visited cities on the planet, so there are plenty of hotel options. It's best to base yourself centrally, and to pick somewhere with a particular flair for breakfast. All that walking is hungry work.
My favourite is The Balmoral. It's an unmistakable Edinburgh icon, from the clock tower that dominates the skyline to the stellar dining at Number One. Its whisky bar is among the best in the city, if not the country, with 500 bottles and counting. Rooms are spacious and bright, breakfast at Brasserie Prince will set you up perfectly for long days up and down Edinburgh's hills.
For those looking for modernity over heritage, there's W Edinburgh. When forming part of the skyline view, the building that houses it is certainly striking but the terrace on the top floor is difficult to beat. Watching the sun rise over the Firth of Forth while enjoying a hearty breakfast is the ideal start to any day, while gazing at the lights of the Old Town over a nighttime dram is a great way to end it. Downstairs the rooms are stylish and sleek, there's hidden parking if Edinburgh is a stop on a Scottish road trip, and there's even a hidden cocktail bar, Joao's Place, which has some of the best drinks in town.
Nick Hendry was a guest of The Balmoral; roccofortehotels.com, and W Edinburgh; marriott.com
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
5 darkly funny cartoons about Israel blocking aid to Gaza
Cartoons Artists take on forcing famine, avoiding aid, and more
-
The easy elegance of Cap Ferret
The Week Recommends 'Elemental and otherworldly' destination is loved for its natural beauty
-
Volodymyr Zelenskyy: flirting with authoritarianism?
Talking Point Ukraine's president is facing first major domestic unrest since the Russian invasion, over plans to water down the country's anti-corruption agencies
-
South Korea highlights: ancient history meets modern culture
The Week Recommends From the bright lights of Seoul to Busan's beaches and the 'living museum' of Gyeongju, this tour offers a taste of a unique heritage
-
The best shows to see at Edinburgh Fringe 2025
The Week Recommends The world's biggest arts festival is back with an incredible line-up
-
A journey into the deep past on beautiful Arran
The Week Recommends New Unesco Global Geopark played a 'key role' in the birth of modern geological science
-
See the bright lights from these 7 big-city hotels
The Week Recommends Immerse yourself in culture, history and nightlife
-
Pine Trees Hotel: a tranquil hideaway in Perthshire
The Week Recommends This boutique bolthole is set amid spectacular scenery in the heart of the Scottish Highlands
-
The Torridon: a luxury retreat amid Highland splendour
The Week Recommends Deep in Scotland's mountainous northwest, this boutique hotel is a stirring contrast between five-star elegance and rugged natural grandeur
-
Escape to the Scottish countryside at Dunkeld House Hotel
The Week Recommends Roam, revive and relax at this luxury hotel in a wooded riverside Perthshire estate
-
Fonab Castle: a regal stay in the Scottish Highlands
The Week Recommends Prepare for the royal treatment in Pitlochry