I spent roughly the last quarter of my life living outside my native Scotland. The number of people I met, from all over the world, who told me they had visited my home country made me proud. The percentage of them who told me they had seen Edinburgh Castle and Edinburgh Airport was wearying.
I get it. The castle is incredible – the views, the history, the romance… it's all great. If you’ve never been, you should go. But it takes half a day at most. There is so much more to Edinburgh than just the theme park approximation of Scottish culture that gushes down Castlehill. It's a living, breathing international capital, full of diversity and wonder; of delectable grime and obnoxious beauty. It's like any other capital city in the world and it's utterly unique at the same time. Since I returned to Scotland at the start of the year, I've been compiling these tips to help more people discover the real Edinburgh.
Things to do
The 'revolutionary' Port of Leith Distillery
(Image credit: Iain Masterton / Alamy)
While there is a reliable tram service that can get you around the city, and is particularly handy for returning to the centre when you've been down in Leith, it's better to get into the hidden streets and alleyways by foot. Newington Road has some cool antique shops and will lead you back up towards the modern Scottish Parliament or ancient Edinburgh University – both are fun neighbourhoods to get lost in.
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Explore the West End, then follow the Water of Leith into Stockbridge; head straight down Leith Walk into Leith itself to find the old docks, a revolutionary new distillery (which does tours) at Port of Leith Distillery, and a glut of fantastic bars and restaurants. These areas are also home to some of the city's coolest independent boutiques: Dick's Edinburgh in Stockbridge selects menswear and womenswear from Scotland and beyond each season and has a really friendly and knowledgeable team, while Bard in Leith has a stunning array of the most beautiful homewares Scotland's artisans have to offer.
Eating and drinking
(Image credit: The Witchery)
I firmly believe the soul of any city can be found in its kitchens. Edinburgh is lucky enough to have many, and an enormous variety of cuisines. If you really crave the Royal Mile experience you can't go wrong with the Witchery. The food is excellent and the restaurant has exactly the kind of opulent and spooky décor that most Edinburgh visitors are looking for.
For something truly local, venture further south. Walking down the hill from the Old Town towards the Meadows is a good idea anyway – the architecture along the way is magnificent – but just across the grass on Roseneath Street you’ll find Nàdair. It's a proper neighbourhood gem; a tiny dining room nestled on the high street, but with a kitchen to rival anywhere in the world. Much of the menu is foraged so it would be futile to recommend a dish as they change so frequently, but if you're lucky enough to visit in the right season to pair the meal with a gorse martini, do so.
Across the city in the New Town, Moss takes the idea of local produce one step further. Everything on the menu comes from the owner's family farm, as does the wood for the tables and most of the décor.
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There's also a vibrant coffee scene throughout the city, providing plenty of short-term fuel stops for avid explorers. Singapore Coffee House is a great breakfast/brunch spot, but get there early or be prepared to queue; Cairngorm Coffee has a convivial atmosphere and some of the best cakes in Edinburgh; Patisserie Florentin is frequented by posh Stockbridge grannies and cool hipster students in equal measure, making it great for people watching; while Storries Home Bakery on Leith Walk is as far from posh as you can get but a mainstay among locals for their quality pies and low prices.
Most trips to Scotland will involve whisky, and most pubs will have a selection larger than the dedicated whisky bars do in your home city. Sticking to Rose Street will serve you well if you just want a quick dram to tick the box, but for a really special collection head a bit off the beaten path to Tipsy Midgie.
Edinburgh also has a strong brewing scene and most bars will stock, along with the legendary and incomparable Tennent's, at least one beer made within the city limits. Pilot Beer is one of the most popular, and they've now opened their own pub at the heart of the New Town. Vessel is located on Hanover Street, just a few minutes' walk from pretty much everywhere, and is a great place to grab food and pints at any time of day.
Where to stay
The Balmoral: an unmistakeable Edinburgh icon
(Image credit: The Balmoral)
Edinburgh is one of the most visited cities on the planet, so there are plenty of hotel options. It's best to base yourself centrally, and to pick somewhere with a particular flair for breakfast. All that walking is hungry work.
My favourite is The Balmoral. It's an unmistakable Edinburgh icon, from the clock tower that dominates the skyline to the stellar dining at Number One. Its whisky bar is among the best in the city, if not the country, with 500 bottles and counting. Rooms are spacious and bright, breakfast at Brasserie Prince will set you up perfectly for long days up and down Edinburgh's hills.
For those looking for modernity over heritage, there's W Edinburgh. When forming part of the skyline view, the building that houses it is certainly striking but the terrace on the top floor is difficult to beat. Watching the sun rise over the Firth of Forth while enjoying a hearty breakfast is the ideal start to any day, while gazing at the lights of the Old Town over a nighttime dram is a great way to end it. Downstairs the rooms are stylish and sleek, there's hidden parking if Edinburgh is a stop on a Scottish road trip, and there's even a hidden cocktail bar, Joao's Place, which has some of the best drinks in town.
Nick Hendry spent more than 20 years working in luxury hospitality before pivoting to journalism in 2020. He uses the expertise that he developed in his former career to inform his writing for The Week and other publications including the Financial Times’ HTSI, Robb Report magazine and The Times’ Luxx. He covers destinations all over the globe but has a particular knowledge of and passion for Paris, Florence, Hong Kong and Taipei. Given half a chance, he'll weave his love of fashion into his work as well. Find him on Instagram at @nickhendry7.
