Pinot grigio: Not all bland

It’s a shame that pinot grigio has come to represent “the epitome of insipid drinking,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. The grape is capable of much more than “the one-dimensional, bland refrigerator whites” that’ve become so popular here. But the market’s winning: Our panel sampled 20 before finding even two that touched a higher plane.

2011 GaierhofTrentino($19).Our rich, well-balanced favorite had “a lively, coiled presence,” offering “persistent flavors of minerals and nuts.”

2012 Köfererhof($28). The runner-up also had “depth and presence,” this time characterized by “ripe, round fruit flavors.”

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2012 Peter Zemmer($15). The best value among the rest was this enjoyable and balanced wine, which offered “an unexpectedly pleasant bitterness.”