Showy tableside service is all the rage in many of New York City’s best restaurants, said Chris Schonberger and Erin Mosbaugh in FirstWeFeast.com. A few “fusty old brasseries” never stopped filleting Dover sole at their customers’ sides or setting bananas Foster aflame. But old-fashioned theatricality is now flaring up throughout the city. Which is nice, because sometimes when we’re out, “we just want to be entertained.”
Porter House Chef Michael Lomonaco re-embraced tableside theater when he finally found a traditional French duck press last fall. The preparation of his canard à la presse culminates when he brings a marinated, just-roasted duck to the table, presses the carcass to release its juices, then prepares on the spot a sauce of foie gras and port that’s ladled over the sliced meat. 10 Columbus Cir., (212) 823-9500
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
