Wine: Oregon’s Rieslings

I’m not going to tell you that all Rieslings from Oregon are worth trying, said John Mariani in Bloomberg.com. Many, in fact, remain “as flabby as fruit punch.” But in a wine-producing state that benefits from a cool climate, brisk, spicy, “elegantly knit” Rieslings are becoming the new norm. As a group, the local offerings “can compete with the world’s best”—especially in the $20 price range.

2011 Argyle Eola-Amity Hills ($18). No wonder the 2011 vintage is deemed a standout: This medium-dry Riesling is “full of tropical flavors and spice.”

2011 Anne Amie Estate Dry Riesling ($20). Old-vine grapes yield a wine of “superb intensity,” including “plenty of spice and dry minerality.”

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2011 Elk Cove Vineyards

Willamette Valley Estate ($19). “Right now, if grilled salmon were on the plate, this Riesling would be in the glass.”