Aglianico: A Southern star

Produced in the lower reaches of the Italian boot, aglianico is often condescendingly called “the Barolo of the South,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. That’s unfair, because while aglianico resembles Piedmont’s grand reds, it’s no pale imitation. Fine aglianicos are “structured and earthy,” but “lively enough to refresh.”

2008 Antonio Caggiano Taurasi Macchia dei Goti ($52). This “beautifully balanced,” relatively delicate aglianico will age well but is “lovely” for drinking right now.

2006 Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Vigna Cinque Querce ($40). Compared with the Caggiano, this one’s “a powerhouse”—rich with “chunky, dark, complex flavors.”

2010 Terredora di Paolo Campania Aglianico ($16). This “smoky, plummy” aglianico is less complex than the Taurasis, but it’s “delicious now and a great deal.”