Getting the flavor of...Western New York’s sleepy canal

Piloting a 12.5-ton vessel along the Erie Canal can be a fine way to “put on the mental brakes.”

Western New York’s sleepy canal

Piloting a 12.5-ton vessel along the Erie Canal can be a fine way to “put on the mental brakes,” said Debbi Snook in the Cleveland Plain Dealer. The 19th-century New York state waterway, once the main artery linking the Midwest to the East Coast, is now plied mostly by recreational craft, including the 34-foot canal boat that a friend and I rented one weekend last fall. The Lockmaster, from Mid-Lakes Navigation (midlakesnav.com), maxed out at 6 mph, which felt like plenty when I had to captain it through tight U-turns, but pokey enough to change our rhythm. Heading east from a point south of Rochester, we passed backyards, fields, and forest, stopping occasionally to explore a friendly town or cook dinner in the boat’s “darling knotty-pine kitchen.” Sitting at the bow on the final day, I watched the scenery “unfold in royal time.” As light flickered between the trees, the water lapping the hull “fell away like petals from a flower.”

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