Slovenia’s ‘orange’ wines

So-called orange wines are “definitely polarizing,” said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. These amber-hued whites, created by letting grape skins macerate with the juices, may seem faddish. “But I remain a fan—fascinated by the textures and subtle flavors” in the best of them. When our panel went looking for the finest whites from resurgent Slovenia, these “oranges” won high marks.

2006 Kabaj Amfora ($83). Our favorite Slovenian wine is fermented in clay amphorae and offers flavors of herbs and anise.

2009 Kabaj Sivi ($20). This pinot grigio is lighter in color, but still exotic, thanks to its “layered, slightly honeyed mineral flavors.”

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2008 Movia Lunar ($37). This natural, unfiltered orange wine, from a “superstar” Slovene producer, is “complex and fruity, with a touch of funk.”