DIY wines: Worth hunting for

“Several of the best wines I’ve had from California this year” come from producers who create small batches in garages and borrowed spaces, said Ray Isle in Food & Wine. In all honesty, “it’s hard to say where this DIY movement will lead”: Most of these winemakers break even at best on their labors of love, and their wines are hard to find. Still, seek the standouts; they’ll surprise you.

2010 Massican Annia ($28). This “crisp, stony blend” of northern Italian varieties gains body from a touch of chardonnay. It might be the best California white that nobody’s heard of.

2010 Matthiasson White ($35). Steve Matthiasson makes this “distinctively aromatic” white from a blend of mostly uncommon white grapes.

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2008 Demuth Kemos Bei Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon ($60). Winemakers Eric Demuth and Peter Kemos create “thrilling Sonoma cabs” in an 800-square-foot winery.