Critics’ choice: The changing face of the South

Halcyon in Charlotte; Rathbun’s in Atlanta; Bouligny Tavern in New Orleans

Halcyon Charlotte

Charlotte, N.C., just might be the South’s most competitive city, but it’s been a laggard in developing a vibrant dining scene, said John T. Edge in Garden & Gun. Four decades into its push to become a business and cultural hub, Charlotte is the nation’s second-largest banking center but is only starting to build the infrastructure a culinary capital needs. The city now has a culinary school and a farmers market, and even some of the white-tablecloth spots are beginning to feel “chef-driven.” Halcyon, which bills itself as a farm-to-table establishment, hands out an overly earnest menu that informs you that a Greek goddess inspired the restaurant’s name. You may want to walk out. But get beyond the trappings and focus on chef Marc Jacksina’s cooking. There are rabbit rillettes with pickled local beets and turnips, Carolina wreckfish, house-made lamb sausage, and a wonderful rendition of a sweet-tea-marinated pork chop. It turns out that, “while the Halcyon folks should never again be trusted to write menu copy, they’re keen cooks.” 500 S. Tryon St., (704) 910-0865

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