Beer: A terroir of its own

Terroir is a controversial subject in the wine world, said Stan Hieronymus in Draft. But if all the term means is that local water, wind, soil, and production methods influence taste, some beers have terroir too.

Blue Mountain Full Nelson Pale Ale Virginia. This brew gets its unique character from a Pacific Northwest variety of hops that tastes a “little less citrusy and a little nuttier” when grown in Virginia.

Odell Hiveranno New American Wild Ale Colorado. Odell’s newest incorporates a wild-yeast strain that the brewery captured, resulting in a beer with a “beautiful grapefruit-rind character.”

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Hill Farmstead Art Vermont. The well water that founder Shaun Hill’s family has enjoyed for centuries has a “clean, soft profile” that elevates every beer Hill brews.