New York’s Napa: Eating well on the North Fork

Where there is good wine, good food follows, said Sylvie Bigar in The New York Times. Taking their cue from California’s Napa and Sonoma scenes, pedigreed chefs have been flocking to the North Fork of Long Island, N.Y., with one goal: to entertain the finicky palates of the crowds drawn to the region by the growing reputation of its wineries. It helps that the restaurants these chefs are creating have 18,000 acres of farmland and a coastline brimming with seafood just outside their doors. The new standouts “don’t just brandish the farm- and sea-to-table credo,” they’re “immersed in it.”

Luce & Hawkins Jamesport. The bountiful garden is key to the menu at this inn and restaurant, located in an 1863 mansion. Don’t be surprised to glimpse one of the chefs “picking sage in full view of the glass-enclosed, high-ceilinged dining room.” Recent dishes included roasted monkfish “served with bubbly bone marrow and peppered with young sage tips and mustard blossoms.” Jedediah Hawkins Inn, 400 S. Jamesport Ave., (631) 722-2900

North Fork Table and Inn Southold. “Pastry virtuoso” Claudia Fleming and her chef husband, Gerry Hayden, work side by side to turn “primarily organic and biodynamic ingredients” into dishes like asparagus with whipped lemon labne and coconut tapioca. Don’t overlook the artisanal hot dogs and pulled pork sandwiches that are served from a truck out back. 57225 Main Rd., (631) 765-0177

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Noah’s Greenport. A seductive sidewalk patio leads to an airy barroom “adorned with industrial touches” at this no-pretense eatery, where chef Noah Schwartz creates “seafood-centric comfort food.” Drops of yuzu brighten a sea-scallop ceviche, while local oysters are both “saline and steely.” 136 Front St., (631) 477-6720