Pinot grigio: Beyond bland

The recent surge in pinot grigio’s popularity has resulted in bland wines that have been “vinified with too little care,” said Fred Tasker in The Miami Herald. So you have to be choosier. “Many growers still understand how to make it well—keep crop yields low, grow it in cool climates, and keep it away from oak barrels.” Others counter pinot grigio’s mildness by adding “fruitier” grapes. The wines below are terrific with light summer fare.

2010 Castello Banfi San Angelo Pinot Grigio ($17). This light Tuscan wine is “crisp, with pure, intense flavors of white peaches, apricots, and minerals.”

2009 Maso Canali Pinot Grigio, Trentino, Italy ($23). You get the scent of camellias and the rich taste of “ripe peaches” in this full-bodied wine.

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2010 J Pinot Gris, California ($16). This lively pinot gris is “crisp and lean, with floral aromas and intense flavors of limes and kiwis.”