“Unlike San Francisco, its sister city across the bay, Oakland hasn’t been known for its innovative menus,” said David Farley in The New York Times. Even when the city redeveloped Jack London Square in the 1970s, in hopes that the “waterfront space would have a quirky, independent appeal,” chain restaurants soon took over. Now, at last, big-name chefs have begun opening restaurants in the area, fleeing “San Francisco’s high rents.”
Commis
After working under some of the best chefs in the world, James Syhabout settled in Oakland, scored a Michelin star, and has continued to raise the stakes with such fare as a “subtle” confit of Atlantic cod that plays with “textures and flavors in a masterly and deeply satisfying way.” 3859 Piedmont Ave., (510) 653-3902
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Bocanova
The long menu of “tapas-sized” dishes at this restaurant, run by a Chez Panisse alum, includes the popular deviled eggs “stacked high with Dungeness crab and topped with chipotle aioli.” 55 Webster St., (510) 444-1233
Camino
Located in an “old furniture warehouse,” Camino’s ever-changing menu features dishes such as a tender “kid goat, paired with a chili-mint sauce,” cooked over an open flame. 3917 Grand Ave., (510) 547-5035
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