A meal on Maui: Upcountry cuisine

Some of the best meals in Maui can be found away from the beach and up toward the volcanic wonder of Haleakala.

Leave the beaches to others when visiting Maui, said Gary Warner in the Orange County, Calif., Register. Instead, go “upcountry,” toward the “cloud-wrapped immensity of Haleakala,” a volcanic wonder that rises more than 10,000 feet from the sea. You’ll find “trendy restaurants” like these three in towns along the way.

Mama’s Fish House & Inn

“Everything you’d expect from a fantasy version of a Hawaiian restaurant.” Try the fish of the day “upcountry-style,” with caramelized onion, tomato, avocado, and jasmine rice. 799 Poho Place, Paia, (808) 579-8488

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Haliimaile General Store

Chef Bev Gannon’s “new Hawaiian cuisine” menu includes coconut seafood curry and a sweet Haliimaile pineapple upside-down cake. 900 Haliimaile Road, Makawao, (808) 572-2666

Ulupalakua Ranch General Store

Stop in this laid-back village for beef or buffalo burgers that are “so fresh you can hear the future patties mooing out back for lunch.” Highway 37, Kula, (808) 878-2561