A meal on Maui: Upcountry cuisine

Leave the beaches to others when visiting Maui, said Gary Warner in the Orange County, Calif., Register. Instead, go “upcountry,” toward the “cloud-wrapped immensity of Haleakala,” a volcanic wonder that rises more than 10,000 feet from the sea. You’ll find “trendy restaurants” like these three in towns along the way.

Mama’s Fish House & Inn

“Everything you’d expect from a fantasy version of a Hawaiian restaurant.” Try the fish of the day “upcountry-style,” with caramelized onion, tomato, avocado, and jasmine rice. 799 Poho Place, Paia, (808) 579-8488

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Haliimaile General Store

Chef Bev Gannon’s “new Hawaiian cuisine” menu includes coconut seafood curry and a sweet Haliimaile pineapple upside-down cake. 900 Haliimaile Road, Makawao, (808) 572-2666

Ulupalakua Ranch General Store

Stop in this laid-back village for beef or buffalo burgers that are “so fresh you can hear the future patties mooing out back for lunch.” Highway 37, Kula, (808) 878-2561