Recipe of the week: Patio grilling: Savory pork tenderloins

Summer is barbecue time, said Amy Traverso in Sunset. “You get to relax

on the patio, cold drink in hand, with a hint of smoke in the air.” Yet the

art of barbecuing is more complicated than it looks. This recipe was created

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by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison, authors of The Big Book of

Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining, who suggest that the tenderloins be grilled over high heat and then finished on a cooler part of the grill.

Sage-rubbed Pork Tenderloins With Sage Butter

2 tbsp crumbled dried sage

1-1/2 tsp brown sugar

1-1/2 tsp coarse kosher salt

1 tsp garlic powder

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

2-3/4- to 1-lb pork tenderloins

6 tbsp butter, preferably unsalted

2 tbsp olive oil

1/4 cup packed fresh sage leaves plus sprigs for garnish

1 garlic clove, slivered

1 tsp mashed anchovy fillet, or salt to taste

Olive-oil or vegetable-oil spray

Stir together dried sage, brown sugar, salt, garlic powder, and pepper. Massage mixture into tenderloins. Let sit, covered, at room temperature, 25 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare gas or charcoal grill for two level fire, with one side at high heat and the other at medium.

In small saucepan over medium-low heat, cook butter, olive oil, fresh sage, garlic about 10 minutes; stir in anchovy, remove from heat. Let sit 10 minutes. Strain butter and keep warm. Spray tenderloins generously with oil. Arrange on cleaned, oiled cooking grate over high heat, angling thinner ends away from hottest part of fire. Grill uncovered, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes total. Move tenderloins to medium heat (cover if using gas) and grill, turning occasionally, until internal temperature reaches 150 degrees and center has touch of pink remaining (cut to check). Time depends on meat’s thickness: Thin tenderloins (about 1-1/2-inch diameter) require 8 to 10 minutes; plump tenderloins (up to 2-1/2-inch diameter) may need twice that long. Remove from grill, tent with foil, and let pork rest 10 minutes before carving. Cut into thin slices, garnish with sage sprigs, and drizzle with sage butter. Serves 8.

Two-level grilling

Charcoal: Ignite 75 to 85 briquets in chimney starter (or on fuel grate); open grill vents. When they’re coated with ash, mound against one side of grate into slope. Allow coals to burn down until they reach desired heat level.

Gas: Turn all burners to high, close lid, heat for 15 minutes. If you have three or more burners, leave two adjacent burners on high. If you have two burners, leave one on high and the other on medium to low.