Recipe of the week: The caveman cometh: Fiery barbecued ribs

Summer is the time to get in touch with your inner caveman, says Joe Yonan in The Boston Globe. And nothing brings out the “ancestral memory” of the way we used to eat than barbecuing meat over an open fire. Barbecue guru Steven Raichlen, whose most recent book is Raichlen on Ribs, Ribs, Outrageous Ribs (Workman Publishing), even claims that “barbecue began civilization.” His “mechoui” of lamb ribs was inspired by a North African community feast centered around a whole lamb. The ribs can be cooked either on a rotisserie gas grill, or charcoal grill using indirect heat.

Recipe of the week

‘Mechoui’ of Lamb Ribs

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1 small onion, quartered

3 cloves garlic, halved

1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced

3 tbsp sweet paprika

2 tsp coarse salt, or more to taste

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground cardamom

1 tsp grated lemon rind

3 tbsp lemon juice, or more to taste

2 to 3 tbsp olive oil, or more as needed

2 racks Denver lamb ribs (trimmed lamb breast; about 2 lbs total)

1 lemon, cut into wedges

In food processor, work onion, garlic, ginger, paprika, salt, pepper, coriander, cinnamon, and cardamom in short bursts until mixture forms coarse paste. With motor running, add lemon rind, 3 tbsp lemon juice, and enough olive oil to make a consistency like mayonnaise. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt, lemon juice, or oil, if you like (you’ll have about 1 cup).

Place a rack of ribs meat-side down on rimmed baking sheet. Remove thin, papery membrane from back of rack by inserting a butter knife under it. Start on a middle bone. Using paper towel to gain a secure grip, peel off membrane. Repeat with remaining rack. Spread each side of ribs with paste. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to grill, or use right away.

If using coals, create two mounds on opposite sides of grill. Place aluminum foil drip pan under grate, centered between mounds. Brush and oil grill grate. Place ribs in center of grate, over drip pan and away from heat. Cover grill, cook ribs for 1 to 1-1/2 hours or until golden brown and meat has shrunk from ends of bones by about 1/4 inch.

Transfer ribs to cutting board, let rest for a few minutes. Serve with the lemon and harissa. Serves 2.

Harissa

2 tbsp hot paprika

3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

2 tsp coarse salt, or more to taste

1 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 cup olive oil

1 tbsp lemon juice, or more to taste

2 tbsp hot water

In blender, work paprika, garlic, salt, coriander, cumin, oil, lemon juice, and water until puréed. Taste for seasoning and add salt or lemon juice, if you like. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 week. Let mixture return to room temperature before using. Makes about 3/4 cup.