Twin Peaks' evil twin

While the original Twin Peaks was superficially adorned with robins on pine branches and picnicking teenagers, Twin Peaks: The Return reveals the naiveté of such a world existing

'Twin Peaks: The Return'
(Image credit: Suzanne Tenner/SHOWTIME)

If you're looking for David Lynch, the locals will tell you to go to the Dairy Freeze. With its cherry-red trim and neon ice cream cone on the roof, the Freeze has barely changed in the more than 60 years since it was built in North Bend, Washington, the former one-stoplight outpost on a now-defunct arm of I-90. Even as microbreweries and trendy outdoors shops bloom around it today, the Dairy Freeze holds on, as stubborn as a weed — an idyllic relic of a version of America that perhaps never existed at all.

Just down the street from the Dairy Freeze is the site of the fictional Double R Diner, preserved so as to be immediately recognizable from Twin Peaks. Twede's Cafe belongs to the same era as the Dairy Freeze, having been built in 1941, but it has become such a tourist trap that to experience it in person is like realizing a beloved actor is six inches shorter in real life than on screen. Waitresses wear tacky Twin Peaks shirts and the World War II-era counter is covered in random, ugly paraphernalia associated with the show. Neither the cherry pie nor the coffee is particularly damn good.

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Jeva Lange

Jeva Lange was the executive editor at TheWeek.com. She formerly served as The Week's deputy editor and culture critic. She is also a contributor to Screen Slate, and her writing has appeared in The New York Daily News, The Awl, Vice, and Gothamist, among other publications. Jeva lives in New York City. Follow her on Twitter.