A cool Canadian city break in Toronto
With its world-class restaurants, museums, galleries and nearby hiking trails, Toronto makes a great alternative to New York

With its skyscrapers, sights and shopping, Toronto is a dead ringer for its North American neighbour, New York.
Like the Big Apple, Canada's largest city is also jam-packed with museums, world-class restaurants, galleries and distinct multicultural neighbourhoods, but has extra outdoorsy appeal thanks to the nearby hiking trails of Rouge Urban National Park and the car-free Toronto Islands just offshore for kayaking, cycling and lakefront beaches.
Cultured and laid-back, the city's walkable districts, cool coffee shops, extensive public transport system and green spaces mean it's often voted one of the best places in the world to live. Now a new daily direct flight from London Heathrow with Virgin Atlantic makes Toronto the ideal place to get your next city break fix.
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Things to do
Niagara Falls is just 80 miles away from the city
The CN Tower is the jewel in Toronto's teetering skyline. Once the world's tallest free-standing structure, the 553-metre tower now has an observation platform for views across the city, a revolving restaurant and the EdgeWalk, the world's highest hands-free walk 116 storeys up.
Elsewhere, there are attractions aplenty including the Royal Ontario Museum, which has six million exhibits, and the quirky Casa Loma, the only full-sized castle in North America.
For shopping, head to Bloor-Yorkville for designer stores, or West Queen West for hip independent boutiques in among the art galleries. Vibrant Kensington Market is the place where many immigrant communities first settled in the city and is crammed with vintage clothing stores, artisan coffee shops, record shops and casual restaurants from around the world, with pop-up stalls and street performers appearing every weekend.
One of the best skyline views can be enjoyed from Toronto Islands, a 15-minute ferry ride from the downtown terminal. The easiest way to explore North America's largest car-free community is by bike. A small-group tour on two wheels with Toronto Bicycle Tours will get you pedalling across the three-mile span of 15 interconnected islands while hearing stories of their unusual history – plus an obligatory ghost story – and visiting landmarks including Gibraltar Point Lighthouse, the Royal Canadian Yacht Club and the islands' sandy beaches. There are walking trails, kayaks and paddleboards to rent and parks for picnicking in summer, plus a small amusement park.
Book in for a tasting and tour at Two Sisters Vineyards
Of course, it's also impossible to come all this way and not head out of the city to Niagara Falls, just 80 miles away. Look past the big-name hotels and cheesy tourist attractions nearby and head straight to the Table Rock Centre, where it's completely free to stand metres from the falls as 2.8 million litres of water flows over the precipice every second. The sheer spectacle of the horseshoe-shaped curtain of water enveloped in a misty cloud of spray is every bit as impressive as you'd hope – just be prepared to get wet if the wind picks up.
For a real treat, see it from above on a helicopter ride with Niagara Helicopters to trace the path of the Niagara River as it thunders towards the falls, then circle overhead for an uninterrupted view of one of the world's most beautiful natural wonders.
Don't head back to Toronto without calling at Two Sisters Vineyards in nearby Niagara-on-the-Lake to sample little-known Canadian wine. This 130-acre vineyard really was founded by two sisters and now produces award-winning wine, including a crisp sauvignon blanc, a gently fruity rosé and an acclaimed sparkling wine made using the traditional method like champagne. Book in for a tasting and guided tour of the vineyards or stop by for lunch at its restaurant, Kitchen76, where rustic Italian dishes are paired with Two Sisters' wines.
Where to stay
The tranquil rooftop pool at 1 Hotel Toronto
1 Hotel Toronto is the hippest address in town and within walking distance of almost everything, including the CN Tower.
The five-star hotel is focused on sustainability but without compromising luxury. Scandi-sleek rooms are tranquil in shades of oatmeal and blush pink with filtered water taps, sliding barnwood doors, rope lamps, yoga mats and an egg timer in the bathroom to encourage quicker showers. Bedside tables are tree stumps fashioned from fallen local trees.
Downstairs there's a buzzy lobby-turned-coworking space with a fire, low-slung sofas, a cocktail bar, a DJ booth and plants at every turn, plus a strict rule that laptops should be turned off at 5pm. Reception can arrange free bike hire, provide details of hiking trails and arrange complimentary transport in the electric house car. A blackboard has details of the week's available activities, which include everything from cake decorating to sound baths and tarot reading. There’s also a gym with free exercise classes and a climbing wall.
Breakfast is served in the glass-walled 1 Kitchen, which offers a zero-waste menu including cold-pressed juices, wood-fired bagels, acai bowls and waffles smothered in local maple syrup. Charcuterie boards, burgers and biodynamic wines are on offer later in the day, while a second restaurant, Casa Madera, serves Mexican and Mediterranean fusion dishes. Just don't miss Harriets, which has an all-day menu of salmon tacos, gyoza and sashimi plus DJ sets by the rooftop pool overlooking Toronto's skyline.
Where to eat
St Lawrence Market was once named the world's best food market
St Lawrence Market is the first stop for any foodie in Toronto. Named the world's best food market in 2012 by National Geographic, there are stalls selling everything from lobsters to artisan pastries for hours of gluttonous grazing. It's also the locals' favourite place to feast on the city's much-loved peameal bacon sandwich.
The pedestrianised Distillery District is 10 minutes' walk away and well worth a wander round its cobbled streets and independent shops, especially Tartistry, to sample Canada's must-try butter tarts, the quirky sake distillery and the delicious-smelling Soma Chocolate Shop for handmade truffles in every flavour imaginable.
Toronto also has plenty of special-occasion restaurants for one final blowout before you head home. Try 54th floor Canoe for Canadian fine dining and local wines overlooking the nearby CN Tower, upmarket Italian Sotto Sotto, or the 44th floor Kost at the Bisha hotel, which serves Californian dishes with views of Lake Ontario.
Siobhan Grogan was a guest of Virgin Atlantic and 1 Hotel Toronto. Virgin Atlantic flies direct between London Heathrow and Toronto, with return fares starting from £391; virginatlantic.com
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