A tourist's view of Saudi Arabia
The controversial nation does not necessarily have to be ruled out for those wanting to explore

Until 2019, visas to enter Saudi Arabia were largely restricted to pilgrims and expatriate workers, but the kingdom is now hoping to attract tourists as part of its effort to diversify its oil-dependent economy. Its dismal human-rights record might well put you off, said Lisa Grainger in The Sunday Times, but there have been some modest improvements. Amnesty International still reports arbitrary detentions, death sentences for rights advocates, and other horrors, but Riyadh's "mausoleum- like" Deera (or "Chop Chop") Square hasn't seen a public beheading since 2022, and women can now drive without a male chaperone.
As a Zimbabwean, I have "witnessed the negative effects of international isolation on a country", so I decided that I would visit. The visa form told me I must respect the country's "Islamic traditions" – which meant "covering up" and abstaining from alcohol – but I was allowed to wear a swimsuit at the pool, leave my head uncovered, and travel alone with a male Saudi guide.
My trip started in Riyadh. It is a city of glitzy shopping malls and traffic jams, but the nearby mud-walled city of Diriyah is beautiful. Heavily restored since its listing as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2010, its old centre, At-Turaif, is a "maze of old buildings and museums" that gets very lively in the evenings – "a bit like Covent Garden", but without the drunks. I was also impressed by the "subversive" art on display at the "polished" Diriyah Contemporary Art Biennale. At the Prophet's Mosque in Medina, which is the site of Mohammed's tomb, pilgrims gather in diverse traditional attire, lending the scene a timeless quality.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
And the ancient site of Hegra is unmissable. The second- largest city of the first century Nabataean kingdom (after Jordan's Petra), it includes 131 "magnificent" rock-cut tombs, and there are some luxurious new hotels nearby, which are good bases for desert adventures including hiking, e-biking and air ballooning.
For tour operators, try Wild Frontiers, Regent Travel, B Corp and Abercrombie & Kent.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
US foodies brace for tariff war
Under The Radar Shoppers stocking up on imported olive oil, maple syrup and European wine as price hikes loom
By Chas Newkey-Burden, The Week UK Published
-
How Canadian tariffs could impact tourism to the US
In the Spotlight Canadians represent the largest group of foreign visitors to the United States. But they may soon stop visiting.
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
Entitlements: DOGE goes after Social Security
Feature Elon Musk is pushing false claims about Social Security fraud
By The Week US Published
-
6 grand homes in Boulder
Feature Featuring a mountain-facing balcony in Lower Chautauqua and a clover-shaped home in Flagstaff
By The Week US Published
-
Gilbert & George and the Communists: an 'illuminating' look at the 'peculiar' world of the art duo
The Week Recommends The collaborative art pair's journey to Moscow in 1990 is chronicled in this 'excellent' book
By The Week UK Published
-
Alterations: 'riveting' 1970s tailoring comedy is a lot of fun
The Week Recommends 'Retro gem' from the National Theatre's Black Plays Archive 'springs into life' from the start
By The Week UK Published
-
Bergerac: 'darker' reboot of the eighties crime drama
The Week Recommends Irish actor Damien Molony takes over from John Nettles as the Jersey detective
By The Week UK Published
-
Pamela Anderson is 'transfixing' in The Last Showgirl
The Week Recommends 'Quietly touching' film about a Las Vegas showgirl facing the end of her career
By The Week UK Published
-
Critics’ choice: New takes on French cuisine
Feature Featuring simple dishes, a Michelin star-winning chef, and a cheeky steakhouse
By The Week US Published
-
Film Reviews: My Dead Friend Zoe and Ex-Husbands
Feature A veteran is haunted by her past and a dad crashes his son's bachelor party
By The Week US Published
-
Music Reviews: Horsegirl, Bartees Strange, and Sam Fender
Feature “Phonetics On and On,” “Horror,” and “People Watching”
By The Week US Published