A weekend in Amsterdam: best of the city centre and beyond

Amsterdam is one of the most popular destinations in Europe, with more than 9 million visitors staying there for at least one night in 2023. But, while it may be well-known as a hotbed of indulgence, there is much more to this beautiful city than the red-light district and those famous coffee shops.

The picturesque city centre, with its museums, galleries and network of Unesco-preserved 17th-century canals, is an obvious draw. But, off the regular tourist track, in Amsterdam's vibrant neighbourhoods, there is so much more to discover – from cultural attractions to sophisticated night spots. Here's our guide to a more grown-up visit to the Venice of the North.

What to see

The first thing to do is pick up an I Amsterdam card, from £49 for 24 hours. This includes entrance to many museums and attractions across the city, and public transportation by metro, bus, and tram. Use it to visit the world-famous Rijksmuseum, with its collection of old masters, as well as the National Maritime Museum, the Rembrandt House Museum, the Botanical Garden and the NEMO Science Museum.

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Be sure to spend some time admiring the canals in Amsterdam’s city centre: there's nothing else quite like them. You can spend hours exploring on foot, by bike or by boat, admiring the architecture as you go.

The Anne Frank Haus museum is a poignant reminder of what happened there during the Second World War, told through the eyes of one girl, while the brand new National Holocaust Museum tells the wider story.

Away from the city centre, Amsterdam's neighbourhoods each have their individual atmosphere and attractions. If you take the five-minute ferry to Amsterdam-Noord, you'll find the 100m-high A'Dam Lookout, which is home to Europe's highest swing, an observation deck, a nightclub, and a bar.

Amsterdam's only surviving 17th-century country estate, Huize Frankendael, sits in the Oost area of the city, the Vondelpark Open Air Theatre is in the Oud quarter, and the Sloterplas lake and urban beach is in Nieuw. The Van Gogh Museum, which is a must-visit for any art fan, is in the Museum Quarter in Amsterdam-Zuid.

Further afield, around 20 minutes north by train, is the Zaanse Schans area, where you will find traditional craft workshops and the last remaining windmills of the Zaan region, which have been beautifully preserved.

Eating and drinking

For traditional fare, the café-restaurant 't Heemelrijck, in the super-cool De Pijp neighbourhood, is the place to go. Expect large plates of hearty Dutch specialities: the beef stew is a standout dish. And don't miss their signature dessert, a sweet, cinnamony French toast that is perfect for sharing (if you can bear to). There are plenty of bars nearby for an after-dinner tipple.

For a more refined option, De Plantage, in the leafy Plantage area, has an outdoor terrace where you can practically hear the sounds of the animals in the nearby Artis Zoo. Indoors, you are treated to views through the windows of a 19th-century conservatory. Be sure to try the ravioli with fennel sausage and sage butter, alongside a crisp glass of white wine.

Of course, Amsterdam is home to restaurants serving cuisine from around the world, and new-kid-on-the-block MAI is the latest to join them. Sitting in the Hotel Mai, the eatery offers an elegant take on street food from across the Asian continent: homemade Chinese dumplings, for example, and a delicious rice-cake stir-fry called chao nian gao. More traditional Chinese food is served at the Sea Palace, a floating three-story pagoda near Centraal Station.

Where to stay

The stunning Kimpton De Witt hotel is perfectly located near Amsterdam’s Centraal Station, just round the corner from some of the city's most photogenic canal waterways. Its 274 comfortable rooms, several of which are in the original 17th-century building, are kitted out with luxurious Frette robes, natural bath products from Dutch beauty company Marie-Stella-Maris, and Nespresso machines. The in-house Restaurant Celia serves a varied breakfast buffet and a dinner menu inspired by the fresh ingredients of California and Mexico. Taco Tuesday is a must, as well as a cocktail in the dark and moody Super Lyan bar. Doubles start at £180 per night.

The Hotel Van de Vijsel is in a quieter part of town, nearer the big tourist hitters of the Museum Quarter, and is situated inside a former timber company. The modern design references the building's history by incorporating vintage 19th-century details and wooden beams. Each of its 82 rooms has Marshall speakers and chic furnishings, as well as a rainfall shower you won't want to get out of. The breakfast is hearty – just the thing for an energising start to the day. Prices start at £70 for a small double.

Jaymi McCann was a guest of I Amsterdam and KLM Airlines