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An otherworldly beauty in the Azores

Plus an unsung town in the Italian Alps and autumn in the Lincolnshire Wolds

Calderao geyser in town of Furnas, island of Sao Miguel, Azores, Atlantic ocean, Portugal
Furnas is ‘enchanting’
(Image credit: Maya Karkalicheva / Getty Images)

The volcanic island of São Miguel featured in the “gripping” 2023 Netflix drama “Turn of the Tide”, about the crime wave that swept through it after half a tonne of cocaine washed up on its shore in 2001. These days, however, it feels entirely peaceful, said Christina Lamb in The Sunday Times, “like a forgotten world, a place where time runs more slowly”.

The largest of Portugal’s nine Azores islands, about 900 miles west of Lisbon, it makes for a superb escape from the UK – radically different (especially in its “dazzling” lushness) but easy to reach, with direct flights from Heathrow. I stayed at two lovely Octant hotels, in Ponta Delgada and “enchanting” Furnas, and enjoyed bathing in hot springs (of which São Miguel has the highest concentration in Europe), a whale- watching trip, and a visit to Parque Terra Nostra, a “sublime” botanical garden.

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