Cley Windmill: character and charm on the north Norfolk coast

Cley Windmill is about as far as you can get from a chain hotel. Within moments of stepping through the door, we’re chatting with the chef, Wendy, about the evening menu. Not only have we forgotten to book a table but my pesky dairy intolerance makes me something of a tricky dinner guest. “How do you feel about swapping the ice cream for homemade custard with coconut milk?” she beams.

It’s the type of interaction that makes you feel instantly at home. The guest house – which operated as a working mill until the early 20th century – has a cosy, welcoming feel that’s hard to come by. Tucked away in the sleepy village of Cley next the Sea on the north Norfolk coast, with views directly out across the rustling salt marshes, it’s the perfect setting for a restorative weekend.

Why stay here?

In terms of location, it doesn’t get much better than this. The B&B has direct access to the Cley and Salthouse Marshes nature reserve; it takes around 15 minutes to stroll down to the beach along a raised path fringed by reed beds. Be sure to check out the balcony encircling the mill tower – it’s a particularly special spot to watch the sunset from beneath the sails.

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The windmill itself has been sensitively restored and has buckets of character. Natalie and Varian Bush bought the guest house back in 2021, and employ a small, friendly team of staff.

We stayed in Barley Bin, on the first floor. Once a storeroom piled high with sacks of flour, it’s now a light-filled room that comfortably fits twin beds (pushed together to make a king-size), a desk and sofa. The exposed brick bathroom is also surprisingly roomy and features a roll-top bath with an assortment of locally made (and heavenly scented) shampoos and body lotions.

There are only nine other rooms, split across the windmill and former stables, including a dog-friendly self-catering cottage that sleeps four. For the best views, consider booking the oak-beamed Stone Room in the mill tower. The quirky abode is the former bedroom of the singer James Blunt (the windmill once belonged to his family) and has its own private section of the balcony, with magnificent views over the nature reserve.

Eating and drinking

From Thursday to Saturday, Wendy crafts a three-course set menu dinner. The talented chef – who trained under the Roux brothers – serves different dishes every night, packed with locally sourced produce and fresh seafood. Dinner kicks off with canapes and drinks at 6.30pm in the sitting room before guests are taken through to the wooden-beamed dining room for the main event.

Dishes are rustic and hearty; you won’t find tiny portions here. We were treated to a classic prawn cocktail followed by the most generously sized wedge of herb-crusted salmon I’ve ever seen, with buttery crushed potatoes, cabbage and roasted Mediterranean vegetables. There was just enough space to squeeze in a very tasty black cherry and apple crumble served with ice cream (coconut milk custard for me) before we rolled outside for an evening stroll among the reed beds, craning our necks to spot constellations in the inky night sky.

Breakfast is also served in the dining room. Guests can pre-order locally smoked kippers or tuck into an array of traditional dishes like the eggs benedict with ham from the local butcher. There’s also a breakfast buffet with a selection of fresh fruit, pastries, yoghurt and granola.

Things to do

It’s easy to fill a weekend with walks in the nature reserve and (weather permitting) dips in the sea. The reed beds are an excellent spot for birdwatching so be sure to bring your binoculars for the chance to spot spoonbills (elegant long-legged water birds with distinctive spatula-shaped beaks) feeding in the shallow pools.

With its flint-cobbled cottages and pastel-coloured shops, Cley next the Sea is a lovely place to spend an afternoon. The village is home to a couple of lively pubs, a wonderful second-hand bookshop and an award-winning deli (also owned by Natalie and Varian). Slightly further afield, you can walk to Blakeney from where you can take a daily boat trip to Blakeney Point nature reserve – a three-mile stretch of shingle that’s home to England’s largest grey seal colony.

The verdict

Cley Windmill doesn’t come with all the trappings of typical swanky hotel (you won’t find a spa or gym here) but when the location is this good it really doesn’t matter. From the welcoming staff to the characterful rooms, it has the ingredients for a truly memorable stay. This is not – by any stretch – your run-of-the-mill B&B. It’s a real treat.

Irenie was a guest at Cley Windmill, cleywindmill.co.uk