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Explore Vancouver Island's wild side
From ancient forests to secluded beaches, the remote sanctuary off Canada's Pacific Coast has it all
The only way to reach Vancouver Island is by boat or plane. Either way, arriving at this remote sanctuary off Canada's Pacific Coast is a memorable experience: cedar trees carpet the rocky shores, hazy mountains stretch as far as the eye can see.
If you're lucky, you might be greeted with the bark of a seal or the whistle of a bald eagle returning to its nest. The island is teeming with wildlife; this is a place where black bears roam the forests and humpback whales can be spotted along the coast. Here are a few ways to experience the untamed beauty of Vancouver Island.
Catch waves at Tofino
Chesterman Beach is an excellent spot for storm-watching
In the manicured streets of Victoria on the southern tip of the island "you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Cheltenham", said Stanley Stewart in Conde Nast Traveler. "But things get rugged remarkably quickly." Around a three hour drive up the coast lies Tofino - a little beach town known as the surfing capital of Canada. Cox Bay Beach hosts most of the surf competitions, while Mackenzie Beach is ideal for families thanks to its sheltered location and calm waters. The winter months can be spent storm-watching: expect dramatic skies, gigantic waves and fearsome winds (take it all in from Pointe Restaurant overlooking Chesterman Beach).
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Adventurous hikers will need five to seven days to complete the perilous trail
(Image credit: JeniFoto / Shutterstock)
Built in 1907 to help rescuers reach shipwreck survivors along the treacherous 'Graveyard of the Pacific', the West Coast Trail is one of Canada's most popular hiking spots. The 47-mile stretch of "ladders, bridges, creek crossings, rock-hopping and beachcombing hugs the Pacific shoreline for most of its course", said Brendan Sainsbury in Lonely Planet. Adventurous hikers will need a permit, camping gear and between five and seven days to complete it, but despite volatile weather and slippery conditions "the rewards are immense". Be sure to plan your route carefully in advance - and bring a sturdy pair of hiking boots.
Take in the forest from the Malahat Skywalk
The spiral walkway curls above the forest canopy revealing sweeping views
(Image credit: David Tyre / Alamy Stock Photo)
For panoramic views of the forest, fjords and mountains beyond, it's worth taking a scenic stroll along the Malahat Skywalk. Located a 35-minute drive from Victoria, the spiral tree-walk opened in 2021. The 32-metre glass and wooden structure looks like a "giant cane basket poking above the forest canopy" and is accessed by a "gently graded walkway that curls up through 10 storeys to a circular lookout", said Sainsbury in The Independent. There's also an 'adventure net' for daring guests to bounce across at the top, and a 20-metre spiral slide for kids.
Go wine tasting in Cowichan Valley
The mild climate is ideal for grape growing
(Image credit: Don Denton / Alamy Stock Photo)
Those looking for something a bit more relaxing could consider taking a scenic drive from Victoria around an hour north along the Trans-Canada highway to Cowichan Valley. Known for its warm, dry summers and mild winters, the region is home to a burgeoning collection of wineries and vineyards. In Cobble Hill, craft cider maker Merridale offers tours and tastings, and has plush yurts on site for overnight stays. "The best place to eat is hidden in the woods near Lake Cowichan, where passionate locavore and chef Brock Windsor runs the Stone Soup Inn," shared Carolyn B. Heller in Forbes. The menu is brimming with foraged ingredients and changes with the seasons.
Where to stay
The Wickaninnish Inn overlooks Chesterman Beach on the island's rugged west coast
(Image credit: Shutterstock)
Perched on the far edge of Vancouver Island in Tofino, the Wickaninnish Inn looks out over Chesterman Beach. The stunning landscape is "reflected indoors at every turn", said Nikki Bayley in The Telegraph, from the floor-to-ceiling windows to the custom furnishings crafted from driftwood. All of the rooms have balconies with ocean views, cosy fireplaces and bathrooms with deep soaking tubs.
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Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge comprises 25 luxurious tented accommodations on the banks of Clayoquot Sound. It might be hard to reach but the journey is "well worth the effort", said Sarah Marshall in The Times. Set in a former mining outpost, each of the lodge's eco-friendly tents feature spacious outdoor decks and ensuite bathrooms.
How to get there
BC Ferries operates vessels between the mainland and Vancouver Island. Leave Vancouver from Horseshoe Bay or Tsawwassen to arrive in Victoria or Nanaimo (you can also take a one-day scenic cruise through the Inside Passage between Prince Rupert and Port Hardy). The other option is to fly: daily flights from Calgary and Edmonton take visitors to Victoria, Comox and Nanaimo.
Irenie Forshaw is the features editor at The Week, covering arts, culture and travel. She began her career in journalism at Leeds University, where she wrote for the student newspaper, The Gryphon, before working at The Guardian and The New Statesman Group. Irenie then became a senior writer at Elite Traveler, where she oversaw The Experts column.
