Fonab Castle: a regal stay in the Scottish Highlands

Fonab Castle fits right into the fairy-tale setting of Pitlochry, Scotland.

This stretch of Perthshire is straight out of a storybook, with rolling hills, glittering lochs, rushing rivers, and deer and rabbits that seem magically to appear – if Snow White showed up alongside them, I wouldn't even bat an eye. Fonab Castle sits in the middle of it all on the banks of Loch Faskally, surrounded by tall trees that could almost look to be standing guard.

You can feel the history as you stroll through the grounds. Built in the late 1800s in the Scots Baronial style, the castle started as a private family home but has had quite a few lives since – during the First World War the property was a British Red Cross auxiliary hospital and in the 1940s it became the headquarters of the North of Scotland Hydro-Electric Board. Since 2013, it has been a luxury boutique hotel, a destination for visitors seeking a country escape just a 90-minute drive from Edinburgh and Glasgow.

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Why stay here?

Fonab Castle's 42 rooms and suites are spread out across the main property and three adjacent buildings, and a kind kilted gentleman walked me to my Lochside Lodge accommodation. As I opened the door, I could see immediately how spacious it was – with a super king-size bed, desk and seating area, it didn't feel crowded at all and I had plenty of room to spread out without tripping over luggage or my shoes.

I loved the touches of tartan in the soft furnishings, pillows and curtains and the bold floral wallpaper, all in soothing shades of purple and green. The bathroom was more minimalist in style, but still had ample space and a sizable waterfall shower, with strong water pressure. When it was time to climb into bed, I was thrilled by the soft linens and how comfortable the mattress was – on the Goldilocks scale, it wasn't too soft and it wasn't too firm, but just right.

The first "pinch me, I'm in Scotland" moment at Fonab Castle came in the morning when I stepped out onto my room's balcony. I was greeted by a gorgeous view of the loch and surrounding trees, the sun reflecting off their golden leaves. As I breathed in the crisp air and took in this stunning sight, I contemplated changing my life's course and moving to Pitlochry, into this room specifically.

It was hard to tear myself away, and if time had allowed it, I would have spent a few hours sitting out here, relaxing with a cup of tea.

Eating and drinking

You can find traditional Scottish fare at Fonab Castle's multiple restaurants, but the real emphasis is on using fresh ingredients and producing dishes with what is local and in season. Depending on the time of year, the chefs have to get a bit more creative when it comes to vegetables – springtime bounty looks a lot different to what grows in winter – but you will always find classic mains like Highland venison and grass-fed Scottish beef.

My second "pinch me, I'm in Scotland" moment at Fonab Castle came during dinner at 1892 On The Loch. My group had just settled into our booth when someone pointed to the floor-to-ceiling windows and gasped, "Look!" Outside, the post-sunset sky was painted in greys and purples with a mist rolling in over the loch and hills, enveloping the trees. We jumped up in unison and headed outside, where I snapped dozens of photos of this beautiful sight.

There could have been fights over who gets to sit facing the windows, which line the entire room, but there is one way to get even closer to nature: book a pod. These glass-enclosed spaces out on the lawn cater for groups of six, and come with a heater, Bluetooth sound system, mood lighting and server.

Now, back to the food. The leek and potato soup topped with crème fraîche, caviar and herb oil is an exceptional way to start dinner, packing so much flavour into the bowl. It was a delicious prelude to my hearty main course of Loch Etive trout with crushed potatoes and lemon chive butter sauce and a selection of Scottish cheeses for dessert.

Breakfast is also offered at 1892 On The Loch, and I returned in the morning for an abundant, full Scottish offering, served with a side of those beautiful views, this time in daylight.

The Lounge Bar is a perfect destination to indulge in a cocktail or two and the elegant Sandemans offers fine dining. While I didn't have a chance to sample the restaurant's delights, I walked through on my way to the Whisky Lounge for a private tasting, and loved the rich, jewel-toned walls and moody lighting.

The verdict

Scotland's tradition of warm hospitality is alive and well at Fonab Castle. In this spectacular setting, it would be easy to skate by on looks alone, but every member of staff I spoke with was amiable and wanted to make sure I was comfortable and enjoying my stay. They made me feel totally at home.

As much as I wanted the fairy-tale ending of my stay to be Fonab Castle actually becoming my home and living happily ever after on the loch, when it was time to check out, I did so with a smile, content to have had the chance to spend time in this magical corner of Scotland.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of Fonab Castle and Visit Scotland