Edinburgh, Scotland: where history ambles alongside the present

Edinburgh's charm can be seen everywhere, from the cobblestones to the castles. For all of its history, though, the city's modern side is also on full display in the vibrant food and arts scenes.

A walk through the centuries

The Royal Mile links Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, with lots of stops along the way. This is where visitors can shop for the perfect souvenir, like a wool scarf or tweed bag; swing by a bar for a whisky tasting; listen to bagpipe players perform on the street; and explore such historic sites as St. Giles' Cathedral, which has been a working church for nearly 900 years. Harry Potter fans will want to take a quick detour to nearby Victoria Street, the assumed inspiration for Diagon Alley. 

Mountaintop or street-side: views that stun

Great views are easy to come by in Edinburgh, and one of the best spots to take in the city is Arthur's Seat in Holyrood Park. It can be a bit of a strenuous walk up this ancient volcano, but it's worth it. Calton Hill also has panoramic views and is home to several neoclassical structures, including the National Monument and Dugald Stewart Monument. Visit later in the afternoon to enjoy the sunset.  

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Want to live like a local? Head down to Broughton Street and meander through the independent stores before checking out the weekend markets, where you can pick up vegetables, teas, jams, jewelry and crafts and interact with area residents. Dean Village is another picturesque neighborhood to explore, with stone buildings and colorful cottages.

Weather permitting, take a stroll through Princes Street Gardens, home of the ornate cast-iron Ross Fountain, and the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh. Covering 70 acres, the botanic garden offers a peaceful respite and free admission.

Museums for art lovers and readers

Culture abounds in Edinburgh, and there are museums for every age and interest. There's the National Museum of Scotland, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, the Museum of Edinburgh and Scottish National Gallery, described by Conde Nast Traveler as "the Louvre of Edinburgh." The Writer's Museum is a celebration of beloved Scottish poets and novelists Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson, and the Museum of Childhood displays historic games and toys.

Food for (nearly) every appetite 

Start the day at Greenwoods with some fluffy pancakes or perfectly poached eggs Benedict. The Full Scottish Breakfast comes appropriately loaded with eggs, sausage, smoked bacon, haggis, roasted mushrooms, roasted tomato, baked beans, hash browns and toast. Ask for a window seat so you can people watch while you dine. Rocksalt Cafe also has solid breakfast and lunch menus, with cute latte art.

The Magnum has some of the best fish and chips in town, with the haddock battered in lager and the tartar sauce made in-house. More adventurous options include the deep-fried Camembert with a cranberry and red currant sauce and the haggis spring roll. 

For a spiced 180, make your way to Dishoom. This London-born restaurant chainlet "pays homage to the Irani cafes and the food of all Bombay," and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It's known for its comforting chai and naan that is baked to order. 

At McGonagall's Gin and Whisky Emporium, the choice is yours. The menu has more than 100 gin cocktails and 120 whisky cocktails. And while the food options aren't as vast, there is still a wide selection of traditional dishes, from Scotch eggs to bangers and mash to beef and beer pie. 

No two days are the same at Mary's Milk Bar. The gelato flavors change daily, and include the classic (hazelnut, dark chocolate) and the singular (earl grey and spice cookie; pear and gorgonzola; ricotta and coffee syrup). Mary makes it all, as well as artisan chocolates. (Note that Mary's often closes for a few weeks each winter.)

One thing to keep in mind: It's important to plan ahead in Edinburgh and make reservations when possible. Otherwise, it can be difficult to secure a table.

The lodgings to know

The Witchery offers opulence in all nine of its suites, with dramatic draperies, four-poster beds, gilded furniture and antique decor. The baroque Original Dining Room is equally over-the-top and serves "the finest Scottish ingredients, from succulent Scottish lobster and langoustines to perfectly aged Angus beef steak tartare." There's also The Secret Garden, which has a painted ceiling featuring angels with bagpipes and tarot imagery and is illuminated mostly by candlelight.

Cheval The Edinburgh Grand is in the middle of it all. The central location puts the comfortable hotel within steps of St. Giles' Cathedral, Calton Hill and the Scottish National Gallery, and the apartment-like accommodations are spacious with kitchens and living rooms. The hotel is inside a restored bank, and the gym is in the bank's former vault.

The Balmoral is described as "a love letter to Scotland." That is apparent right at check-in, when guests are greeted by staffers wearing the bespoke Balmoral Hotel Edinburgh tartan. The rooms are warm and inviting, and several have great views of the city and Edinburgh Castle. Afternoon tea is served in the elegant Palm Court, where guests can listen to a harpist play as they sip on one of the menu's 88 teas.