A vast “concrete jungle” with “notoriously awful” traffic, the Brazilian city of São Paulo does not attract many foreign tourists, said Tomé Morrissy-Swan in The Telegraph. They tend to opt instead for the “glamour and natural beauty” of Rio, or the “vivaciousness” of Salvador – and yet to skip it is to miss a “gem”.
Fifty miles across and home to some 21 million people, the urban area it dominates is the biggest in South America. Exploring it can be “tiring”, and the weather is often “grey and drizzly, even cold (by Brazilian standards)”. But the riches it harbours – artistic, architectural, musical, culinary – are “endless”, and many of its most tourist-friendly areas (such as “bohemian” Vila Madalena and “upmarket” Jardins) are walkable, and “relatively safe”.
In the mid-19th century, São Paulo was a “provincial backwater”, home to just 30,000 people. From the 1870s, however, a coffee-fuelled economic boom attracted huge numbers of immigrants, and the city soon overtook Rio as Brazil’s leading industrial and, later, financial centre.
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Today, it is an art lover’s “paradise”, with hundreds of museums and galleries, such as the Pinacoteca (great for Brazilian art) and the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP), an extraordinary modernist building on “giant” red stilts. Fans of modernist architecture will find much else to enjoy, too – not least in Ibirapuera Park, with its striking array of mid-century buildings by Oscar Niemeyer, including the pavilion that now houses the superb Museu Afro Brasil.
São Paulo is also a great city of music. For traditional samba, try late-night spots in Pinheiros (Ó do Borogodó, Julinho Clube); less “raucous” are Bona Casa de Música and the “stunning” Casa de Francisca.
The food is terrific here too. Thanks to its waves of immigration, there are lots of excellent Japanese, Italian and Middle Eastern restaurants, but there are also plenty of wonderful Brazilian places. Two of these – Tuju and Evvai – recently became the first restaurants in Latin America to win three Michelin stars.
