The wineries and ancient wonders of Ningxia
Impressive landscapes of a relatively unvisited region of northern China
Few foreign tourists venture here but, with its great mountains, desert landscapes and impressive ancient sites, Ningxia in northern China is an “exciting” place to visit, said Harriet Compston in The Times.
Ningxia looks tiny on a map of the country but it is nearly as big as Scotland. It was a province until 1958, when it became an autonomous region for the Hui people – a largely Muslim ethnic minority who make up 55% of its population. From Beijing, it takes two hours to fly to the regional capital, Yinchuan, a city of almost three million people where skyscrapers “mingle with ancient pagodas” and “tree-lined boulevards” are interspersed by large parks, and “immaculate” museums. In parts of the region, vineyards and orchards fed by the “mighty” Yellow River “unfurl” in an “otherwise parched landscape”.
For domestic tourists, Ningxia is now “synonymous with wine tourism”. Wine production began here in the 1980s and, this year, it accounted for more than half of the 214 medals awarded to Chinese wines at the Decanter World Wine Awards. On an 11-day tour with Bamboo Travel, I stayed at the Xige wine estate, which has a “breezy” restaurant, before heading off to the Xixia Imperial Tombs. Built for the Xixia emperors, who ruled a swathe of northern China from 1038 to 1227, these ruined mausoleums feel “otherworldly”, thanks partly to their spectacular setting below the “craggy” foothills of the Helan Mountains.
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In the “jagged peaks and deeply cut ravines” of the Helans (which rise to 11,600ft), I saw “astonishingly well- preserved” ancient petroglyphs. At the Great Wall – which is here built of earth and “shaped by centuries of desert winds” – I was alone, but for some “nonchalant” camels, their gazes fixed on the “arid” landscape of Inner Mongolia. I also enjoyed contemporary cultural experiences, including a visit to Manpu, a “purpose-built performing arts town” known for its stage shows.
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