A menu promising a “glistening digital cheesesteak or an eerily geometrical” turkey sandwich “evokes little more than horror in those who behold it”, said The New Yorker. Yet a growing number of restaurants are relying on generative AI to create their promotional materials.
‘Nightmarish quality’ Images of food were once “a thing to be drooled over”, highlighting the “sensual, the luscious, the beautiful”, said The New Yorker. But now a “nauseating, nightmarish quality defines AI’s insectified interpretation of human cuisine, as if food were just another surrealist goo to stochastically iterate upon”. These fake images “mock life itself”.
Such menus may also make a mockery of customers, Adaeze Onejeme, an ad sales worker in Los Angeles, told CNN. “It’s like you don’t even know what you’re going to get” when the actual food arrives, so “is it false advertising”? Despite such concerns, said the broadcaster, the “phenomenon” is spreading worldwide. In Tokyo, adverts show sandwiches that appear to be “made of cobwebs”. In Kuala Lumpur, a bowl of spaghetti marinara “looks like perfectly arranged yarn or strings of Play-Doh”, while images in Berlin include a “plastic-looking quiche with holes”.
‘Low quality, laziness’ These menu images “can signify qualities people generally don’t want to associate with food”, such as “low quality, laziness or, well, slop”, said CNN. Some of them are “alienlike catastrophes”.
AI images may be cheaper and easier to create, but there’s an “innateness” to how real food looks that “you can feel in your bones”, professional food photographer Emily Hawkes told USA Today. With AI images, “there’s something wrong, and you might not be able to put your finger on it, but you know it when you see it”. That’s why we can’t look away from these pictures, said psychologist Stephanie Sarkis: our brain gets stuck between “approach and avoidance” as it tries to make sense of something that looks almost real but clearly isn’t.
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