Record-breaking mountaineer who found fame on Netflix
Nirmal “Nims” Purja, who was killed last month while climbing in Pakistan, “redefined what was physically possible at high altitude”, said The Telegraph. The Nepali-British mountaineer became famous in 2019, when he scaled the world’s 14 mountains rising over 8,000 metres in six months and six days – smashing the previous record, of seven years.
In 2024, Purja, who cited Usain Bolt and Muhammad Ali as inspirations, did it all over again, this time without supplementary oxygen, in another record-breaking time of 29 months. The subject of a hit Netflix documentary in 2021, he won millions of followers online, and lucrative contracts from mountaineering brands.
However, questions were raised about his reliance on huge support teams and helicopters to ferry him between base camps to achieve his record-breaking feats, and in 2024, major corporate sponsors dropped him after he was publicly accused of sexually harassing and assaulting two female climbers – allegations he denied.
Nirmal Purja was born in a remote mountain village in western Nepal in 1983. His father had served with the Gurkhas and his mother was a farmworker. “We came from a really poor family,” he recalled. “As a kid I remember I didn’t even have flip-flops.” Like his older brothers, he followed in his father’s footsteps, joining the Gurkhas aged 18. He was deployed to Afghanistan in 2007, where he was involved in sweeping vast areas of land for improvised explosive devices. In 2009, he became the first Gurkha to pass Selection for the elite Special Boat Service.
It was while he was in the SBS that he discovered his love of high-altitude mountaineering. He trekked to Everest base camp in 2012, and in 2016 he reached the summit for the first time. In 2019, he took a photograph of a long queue snaking to the top that went viral. In the same year he rescued a Malaysian climber on Annapurna. In 2023, he paused to rescue a Nepalese army captain who’d been abandoned by his own party on the South Summit of Everest.
Purja’s other achievements included being part of the team that, in 2021, made the first winter summit of K2 – one of the world’s deadliest peaks, where the bodies of several climbers killed by an avalanche in 2008 still lie in a narrow gully known as the Bottleneck. “Passing bodies, you realise some things are beyond planning and skill,” he said. “Sometimes it’s just your day and sometimes it isn’t.” He was killed by an avalanche on Broad Peak, in the Karakoram range, along with nine other climbers. He is survived by his wife Suchi, and their daughter, Himani.
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