Wine of the week: a pulse-quickening sherry
Matthew Jukes tastes a bone dry, palate-invigorating, sharply tangy sherry
There are fewer âanniversary momentsâ in the wine trade these days. I remember, 30 or so years ago, when we used to get very excited about the arrival of the new vintage of Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc. A few vintage Port declarations have been announced in the last week or so, but I doubt you heard any fanfare.
The Champagne houses make it up as they go along, tooting their horns every so often to try and drum up business for their ubiquitous prestige cuvĂ©e releases. There are also a few âNational Daysâ, which generic bodies try to hitch a ride on in order to bathe their wines in the spotlight for a moment or so.
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None of these âcelebrationsâ is as pulse-quickening as the moment that La Gitanaâs En Rama Manzanilla hits the shelves. You will be familiar with the regular La Gitana â the finest value, aperitif-style dry sherry on the planet (ÂŁ11.19, Waitrose; ÂŁ10, virginwines.co.uk; ÂŁ8, 75cl bottle, Sainsburyâs). The En Rama version is the fresh-as-daisies, natural yeasts, honest and elemental style of Manzanilla.
This is a bone dry, palate-invigorating, sharply tangy sherry and it is bottled without filtration or fining. It is literally taken from the barrel and is the untainted juice directly harvested from palomino grapes grown in the famous Albariza soils of SanlĂșcar de Barrameda. The four merchants listed have just this second received their stock so make that call today!
La Gitana, Manzanilla En Rama, Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, SanlĂșcar de Barrameda, Spain â ÂŁ16.99, virginwines.co.uk; ÂŁ16.95, reduced to ÂŁ15.95 each as part of a mixed case, leaandsandeman.co.uk; ÂŁ65 per case of six bottles in bond (not including duty and VAT), clarionwines.co.uk; ÂŁ130 per case of 12 bottles in bond (duty and VAT will be added and the minimum order is ÂŁ500), farrvintners.com
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competitionâs Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)
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This article was originally published in MoneyWeek