New York has plenty of great restaurants, said Frank Bruni in The New York Times. But what makes it such a wonderful dining town is that talented chefs are always opening new ones. Here, in descending order, are the four best restaurants to open in New York in 2008.

Momofuku Ko David Chang’s “paradigm-busting,” 12-seat, sushi-counter-style restaurant heads this list because it perfectly provides “what a new generation of discerning diners cares most about,” while dispensing with frippery and fuss. 163 First Ave.,

Corton Chefs Drew Nieporent and Paul Liebrandt’s $76 three-course prix fixe menu is luxuriously classic, beginning “with a flurry of amuse-bouches and petit fours.” 239 W. Broadway, (212) 219-2777

Scarpetta (tie) Even a simple dish like Spaghetti al Pomodoro rises to celestial heights at this restaurant in the meatpacking district. 355 W. 14th St., (212) 691-0555

Convivio (tie) A warm and convivial restaurant under chef Michael White, whose menu has “pegged him as one of the city’s top pasta whizzes.” 45 Tudor City Place, (212) 599-5043