Supper clubs and pop-ups can be great, but so many of them take place in temporary spaces – in tents or on rooftops – far away from a professional kitchen. As a result, the experience can feel more like a catered corporate event than a culinary odyssey. This is where Carousel steps up to the plate – literally.
The restaurant was established by four cousins – Ollie, Will, Ed and Anna Templeton – who all love dining out and travelling the world, trying new restaurants. Now, instead of jumping on a plane, they're encouraging some of their favourite chefs to come to them.
Every few weeks, a different chef visits Carousel to show off their cuisine to an eager London audience. They hail from far and wide: recent visitors have included Tommy Forster from Yard in Paris, Bjorn Persson from Gothenburg's Koka and Carl Ishizaki of Stockholm's Michelin-starred Sushi Sho.
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Ishizaki adapted the usual 15-course menu at Sushi Sho to a four-course taste of what his restaurant is all about. Along with dishes such as soy-cured egg yolk (a Sushi Sho signature), okra, toasted rice, octopus and abalone; plus cured mackerel with broad bean puree, shiokoji (an umami-rich seasoning) and plum vinegar, Ishizaki chose a selection of sake to be paired with the food.
The Templetons have made sure that the convivial atmosphere of a supper club is part of the Carousel experience. The space is also home to changing art exhibits and a lovely garden and all tables are shared, which helps maintain a buzzy atmosphere as diners compare notes on their favourite dishes. Guests book and pay in advance for the chef and menu, meaning there are fewer drop-outs and less waste.
It's clearly a lot of fun for the chefs as well – as Ishizaki said when asked if he'd come back: "Yes, yes, yes. Carousel feels a bit like family, with a similar mood to Sushi Sho. My guys clicked well here, and it was a very memorable experience. We had fun, and it seems like the guests had a good time, too. We would happily repeat."
Upcoming guest chefs include Jonas Lagerstrom from Yolo, Stockholm, who will be at Carousel from 26 July to 6 August. He specialises in fusion cuisine, a delicious combination of his native country's fare and flavours picked up from his travels: think Swedish pork tacos with coriander and salsa, or sweetbreads with yuzu, curry and mandarin. Then from 9 to 20 August, Alex Nietosvouri, from BROR in Copenhagen, will bring his Scandinavian menu of delights, such as egg yolk, peas, pickled chanterelles, smoked pork, chicken skin, brown butter foam and smoked bacon broth, to the restaurant.
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For many, Carousel might be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see what these chefs can do. But perhaps more importantly, it promises great, interesting and delicious food – and it's really good fun.
A ticket to a night at Carousel is around £37.50 per person, excluding drinks; carousel-london.com
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