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Ludwig Reiter: Boots with dash
A heritage shoemaker in Vienna with a forward-looking vision puts a modern gloss on traditional fine footwear
When it comes to quality shoes, Austria may not be the first place that springs to mind. But Ludwig Reiter, a family-run enterprise in Vienna, has carved out a distinct approach, informed by generations of history and expertise.
"British and American shoemaking is focused on classic design and classic manufacturing," says Till Reiter, the great-grandson of founder Ludwig Reiter I and now at the helm of the company. "The British approach is focused on quality and craftsmanship, but is mostly very conservative and the Italians think design is the most important aspect.
"We see classic manufacturing as important, but believe design has to continue to change."
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Stylistically, Viennese footwear has developed an aesthetic inspired by its surroundings - think beautifully functional examples fit for equine and alpine adventures. Ludwig Reiter began by making boots in the 1880s for officers in the Austro-Hungarian army and then expanded the business in the 20th century with the introduction of a Goodyear welted shoe and, later, casual and sports shoes. Today, it is the last remaining shoemaker in Austria to craft welted shoes.
"These shoes are our core business and the technology is still regarded as the absolute best," says Reiter. "Nowadays, when people all over the world think of high-quality safety shoes, such as those worn by the military, they think of Goodyear welted, though they may not know that's what it's called. For professionals or people who have to walk to work or stand during the day, well-made shoes are crucial for the job."
Since 2000, when it acquired leather-goods specialist Franz Schulz, Ludwig Reiter has expanded its repertoire to include bags, briefcases and other accessories. The Globetrotter, inspired by a classic doctor’s bag, is a stand-out in its recent collection. Half the profits from its sales will be donated to medical charity Medecins sans Frontieres.
Where does Ludwig Reiter fit in the context of modern footwear? "If your knowledge of menswear is about style then in most cases, it will mean a British-style classic shoe. Only if you're able to go beyond that will you find us," says Till Reiter.
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Plenty of shoe connoisseurs around the world are already making big strides in that direction.
