Daks: Survival of the fittest

Daks is a name synonymous with sartorial innovation. Established as a bespoke tailor in 1894 on London's Middlesex Street, the brand flourished when its founder, Simeon Simpson, spotted a gap in the newly mechanising market and swiftly transformed his bespoke workshop into a successful business mass-producing high-quality, ready-to-wear menswear. It is a testimony to Simpson's pioneering ambition that, during the early years of the 20th century, "Simpson Suits" were considered the pinnacle of off-the-peg gentlemen's tailoring.

Even so, the Simpson Suit is not the greatest invention that the house can lay claim to today – that prize must be awarded to Simeon's second son, Alexander. For decades during the 19th and 20th centuries, braces were the only means to keep a gentleman's trousers where he intended – squarely around his middle. Come the 1930s, though, braces were increasingly seen as old hat, uncomfortable and restrictive. Indeed, they were particularly irritating to Alexander Simpson because they impaired his golf swing. Resolved to do something about this, Alexander put his thinking cap on and promptly created the "Daks Top", the world's first self-supporting trouser, needing neither braces nor belt thanks to its patented adjustable buttoning waistband.

Confident of success, Simpson ordered 100,000 pairs prior to its launch in 1934 and, sure enough, the Daks Top trouser was met with universal approval. A veritable menswear revolution, the design also allowed the modern gentleman to introduce a refreshing note of colour into his thoroughly monochromatic wardrobe – at its peak, the Daks Top was made available in as many as 50 different colours and fabrics, to be worn with sportswear and tailored jackets alike.

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Few brands have taken ownership over tailored separates in quite the same way since, and Daks' men's collection for autumn/winter 2016 builds beautifully on this heritage. Alongside its elegant suiting, more relaxed separates such as richly textured Donegal tweed sports coats in navy, rusty brown and forest green cry out to be paired with grey flannel trousers. Luxurious navy or biscuit-coloured blazers likewise feel soft and luxurious, ideal for dressing with a pair of Daks' inky-blue or earthy chocolate-brown cords. Alternatively, the house's confident windowpane-check flannels can simply be worn with a fine-gauge knit for a fitting homage to the sporty design flair of the original Daks Tops.

The current collection might be less radical than the world's first self-supporting trouser, but it is just as sophisticated, reinforcing Daks' identity as one of the most quietly forward-thinking designers in luxury British menswear today.

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