Guy Bove on designing Breitling's Navitimer 8

The Navitimer 8 marks a new addition to this iconic line. This watch has a strong connection to the 1930s and 40s, when pilots were handling planes that were difficult to fly. Instead of being on autopilot, you had 1,200 of horsepower and 600kg of plane beneath you, so the idea is to have a watch you can easily read. This is one of the biggest design differences compared to its sister collection, the Navitimer 1. I consider the Navitimer 8 to be a sports watch for pilots, whereas I see the Navitimer 1 being more apt for long-haul pilots, where you have time to make calculations using your wristwatch. In that sense, the Navitimer 8 differs as it has a different design theory behind it, and is made for a different customer.

There are various elements that we have reintroduced and updated that you may have seen in our older watches. For the Navitimer 8, I wanted to create something that felt a little sportier. In all our Navitimers, as well as many other early Breitling models, we have used a scalloped bezel. In this model, we have given it more presence; it's a detail that has been around for about 80 years, so I wanted to emphasise it a little. When you move the watch, there's a really interesting play of light and the bezel comes alive, but the time is still easily readable at a quick glance.

We've additionally redesigned other elements for our new watches. On the earlier Breitling watches, you'll often see two typefaces – one for the hours, and another for the sub dials. This logic was reintroduced for the Navitimer 8 models, and importantly so, as the type on our sub dials is small, so it was imperative to use a font that is easily readable at that size. The shape of the lugs has also evolved from that of the Navitimer 1. It has short lugs, which makes it very ergonomic, but unlike the Navitimer 1 they are curved, the benefit being that they look longer than they actually are and appear more elegant.

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Included in the Navitimer 8 collection is a core chronograph, available in an ergonomic 43mm case size. The sub dials are the same colour as the dial background, and we've incorporated a brushed finish on the bezel. It's available on a calf strap or on steel. The stitching on the strap is a beautiful feature as well. We wanted to remember the early pilot watches, when they actually stitched the strap onto the case instead of using a removable pin, which exists now. It's another vintage touch that makes it distinctive in the market today.

GUY BOVE is the creative director of Breitling; breitling.com