Wine: White Burgundys

“For most wine drinkers,” the greatest white in the world is made from the chardonnay grape and comes from Burgundy, France, said Nick Passmore in Bloomberg.com. In Burgundy, Grand Cru and 1er Cru are lofty appellations denied to so-called village wines, yet great bottles can be found in every category.

2009 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, Moreau ($65). A stellar vintage yielded this “impossibly decadent” Chablis, from the greatest of the region’s Grand Cru vineyards.

2008 Beaune 1er Cru, Joseph Drouhin ($100). A graceful, focused Burgundy that—“in many minds, including mine”—warrants Grand Cru status.

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2009 Meursault Les Tessons, Domaine Pierre Morey ($82). This “gorgeous” village wine “punches way above its weight.” It’s proof that the appellation matters less than the producer.